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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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Backpacking in Ho Chi Minh City – Cu Chi Tunnels, War Museum and more…

July 31, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City is a very interesting place with its blend of old and new.  The city itself is much more metropolitan compared to its Vietnamese counterparts, with modern cafés & hotels scattered throughout the downtown core.  Past, Present & Future seem to co-exist here in harmony and is embraced fully by the local people.  The locals are happy-go-lucky people with a strong entrepreneurial spirit.  However, there is still a sombreness in the air and a silent respect for what has happened during the War.

Stay:

We stayed at Yen’s Hotel.  It is located centrally in an area that has developed organically into HCMC’s ‘Backpacker District’.  It is down an alley on Pham Ngu Lao.  We were able to walk pretty much everywhere from here.  The Ben Thanh Market is only about a 10 min walk away.

Things To Do:

Half-Day Tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels (8AM-3PM) – We joined a tour on our first day and were picked up by a minivan from our hostel, then driven about 1.5-2 hours outside of HCMC, arriving at the site of the Tunnels in Cu Chi.  Admission was 80,000VND per person (however, the rates seem to have increased since).  The tour costs an additional $6USD per person, which includes a guide and transportation to/from your hotel).  When we arrived, we were ushered into what looked like a barrack, where we watched a video clip about the Cu Chi Tunnels and the War.

We then followed our guide to various stops at the site, including displays of weapons and traps made by the Vietnamese and tanks that have been hollowed out.  The traps are ingenious and really emphasize the fact that the Vietnamese are strong, resourceful people.  With the limited resources they had at the time, you really come to appreciate the natural human instinct for survival.

There is also a gun range on-site where you can try your hand at some of the weapons used at the time (i.e. M16, AK47, etc).  We’ve never been in a shooting range before, so it was a really fun experience.  Make sure you wear the headphones they offer you before walking into the shooting area!

And last, but certainly not the least, we were given the opportunity to crawl through sections of the tunnels on our own.  If you are claustrophobic, you may consider just going down for a quick peek.  We had to squat our way through the tunnels, which is only wide enough for 1-way travel.  It’s amazing to see this intricate network of tunnels and try to imagine what it must have been like in the midst of all the fighting.

 

War Remnants Museum – The extensive collection of photos, stories and articles here is a poignant documentation of the tragic events that took place in Vietnam from 1955-1975.  I really appreciated that the Museum was basic and simple, leaving its visitors with their thoughts as they silently move through the displays.  This is a sobering experience as you are presented with some very difficult facts, and the reality of how humans have chosen to treat each other.  Hopefully this means that we will never make these mistakes again.  We spent about 3-4 hours here.

 

Ben Thanh Market & Night Market – If you thrive on the hustle and bustle of the markets & the thrill of bargaining, look no further than the Ben Thanh Market.  It’s a large indoor market that sells everything you can think of.  It is organized by categories, so check the maps at each main entrance before you let yourself get lost in the maze.  The indoor market closes around 6PM.  Don’t worry though, because the Night Market vendors will start setting up, spilling out onto the nearby streets.  You will find street eats here as well.

 

Colonial Walk of Saigon – Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) has a very colourful history & is worth a read.  On and around Dong Khoi St in District 1, you will find grand buildings in French colonial style.  As you walk past the Rex Hotel, the Continental, the Majestic Hotel & the Opera House, you really do get a sense of the glamour and the intrigue of its glory days.  This area is now home to designer shops and fancy cafés.  Further along, you will find the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office (my personal favourite).

DSC08208DSC01509

Tags: Accomodations, budget, Food, ho chi minh, Vietnam
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Backpacking Hoi An – A Food Lover’s Haven

July 15, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Aside from the quaint historical feel of Old Town, it was the promise of tantalizing Vietnamese flavours that drew me to Hoi An.  After  a few days in the countryside, we were ready to fatten up with some authentic Vietnamese food and some of this mysterious Cao lầu (a specialty noodle dish that is found only in Hoi An).

Take a Cooking Class – Our first day was spent at a cooking school, where we sampled 11 different dishes that the group made together.  There are also a number of cooking schools in Hoi An, and each one offers a slightly different itinerary.  Some include a bike ride to the vegetable farm as well, so it depends on what you are looking for.  Morning Glory Restaurant (see below) offers a variety of options.

Sample the Street Food – As if a full day of eating wasn’t enough, we waddled over to Banh Mi Phuong for some of the best banh mi in all of Vietnam.  The bread was out of this world!  Its thing, crispy exterior & light, airy interior contrasts beautifully with the very flavourful (& spicy) filling.  We ordered #5 (Thit Nuong) and it was everything we thought it would be  🙂

Another great place to sample street food is inside the Cho Hoi An (Hoi An Market).  We tried the Mi Quang and the White Rose.  Interesting flavours and worth trying as they are specialties of the area.  I do have to say that we weren’t blown away by them though.

We then wandered deeper into Old Town and ventured close to the water (near the intersection of Bach Dan Street and Le Loi).  We still had yet to try the famous Cau Lau, so we stopped at the busiest street vendor  on the block and sat down on their little plastic stools.  We had a romantic view of the water and were right across from the stage with live traditional music performances.

When we finished dinner, we walked a few steps over to the dessert (Chè) stands and tried their ground black sesame dessert.  It’s flavourful and not as sweet as the Chinese version that we’re more familiar with.  Down another side street in Old Town is a tofu dessert stand operated by the cutest elder lady 🙂  We really enjoyed it and ordered a second serving!

Morning Glory Street Food Restaurant and Cooking School – Nestled inside Old Town (106 Nguyen Thai Hoc), this restaurant is super popular and reservations are highly recommended.  They were fully booked every night we were in Hoi An and I can see why.  They have a very extensive menu, so you really wouldn’t be bored going back 2 or even 3 times.  We went for lunch AND dinner on the same day!  Keeping the flavours of Hoi An street food alive, their menu offers specialties from the Hoi An area and other traditional Vietnamese dishes as well.  We sampled a wide range of dishes, and especially enjoyed their chicken and mint salad (Goi Ga) and traditional chicken with rice (Com Ga Hoi An).  However, what truly stands out is their condensed frozen yogurt dessert (Ya-out).  Try it if you have a chance!

Cargo Club – Owned by the same people, this restaurant/cafe/boulangerie is right across the street from Morning Glory (107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc) and offers up a drastically different menu.  Cargo Club serves a great western breakfast, cakes, pastries, homemade ice cream, specialty drinks and coffee, and western and vietnamese fine dining.  It’s a really great stop no matter what time of day.

Reaching Out Teahouse – This is a really special place, and a great way to escape the hustle and bustle of Hoi An tourism while enjoying a nice cup of tea (131 Tran Phu).  The servers are speech and hearing impaired, which lends itself to the tranquil environment; and a lot of the beautiful handicraft products in the teahouse are made by the artisans at Reaching out Arts and Crafts store just around the corner.

Go back to my main post on Hoi An.

Banh Mi Phuong

Banh Mi Phuong – Menu

Our tasty banh mi 🙂

Cho Hoi An

The stall we ate at in the market

Mi Quang

White Rose

Tofu Dessert Lady

Me & My Cau Lau

Street Food – Dessert Menu

Spring Rolls @ Morning Glory

Goi Ga @ Morning Glory

Com Ga @ Morning Glory

Ya-out @ Morning Glory

Tags: Cafe, Food, hoi an, Restaurant, Tea, Vietnam
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Roaming the streets of Quaint Hoi An

July 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Enroute from Central Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City is Hoi An, a quaint historic town with some great stops for the traveling foodie.  Although the architecture has been preserved, its Old Town is now home to nice shops, restaurants and cafés to cater to the large number of tourists that Hoi An attracts.  You’ll find that everything is very walkable, or you can rent cruiser bikes to take you around (check with your hotel to see if they offer use of their bicycles for free). We stayed in Hoi An for 2 days and I think that is more than sufficient, unless you are looking to order custom tailored clothing. DSC08016 DSC08127

 

Where we stayed: Vaia Boutique Hotel – We enjoyed our stay here for 3 nights, which included daily breakfast.  The room was comfortable and had air conditioning, which was really nice.  The hotel offers free use of their cruiser bikes.  Cleanliness wasn’t excellent.  Location is decent.  Although it’s not located in the centre of town, the hotel is only a short work into Old Town (approximately 10 min).

 

Things to Do:

Take a Cooking Class – We joined a cooking class with Green Bamboo.  I have a separate post on this as it is pretty long and heavy on the photos.  We were a class of 11 people, which meant we had the opportunity to sample a wide range of dishes.  Highly recommended!

 

Stroll Along the Beach – Our hotel offered bicycles for free, so we took them out to Cua Dai Beach, which was about 4 km (15-20 min).  We were stopped & asked to park our bikes in a lot (paid 10,000 VND), which is odd because we later saw other people with bikes riding around closer to the beach. I had read some reviews about the beach being touristy, but I didn’t really feel that way.  We walked further along the beach, and soon we were pretty much alone.  The sand is nice and soft, perfect for building sand castles.  🙂  Taking a break from all that hard work, you can relax on some lounge chairs and sip on some cold drinks.  I was surprised to see that the prices here were considerably cheaper than ordering drinks in Old Town.  Most of the lounge chairs are operated by independent local shops, although some are run by larger resorts.  Being huge advocates for supporting local businesses, we opted for a small shop.

 

DSC08064 DSC08102 Indulge in the Wonderful Flavours of Vietnamese Food – We did a LOT of eating while we were in Hoi An – sampling the cafés, restaurants and street food.  See my post on eating in Hoi An.

 

Go Shopping – There are many cute little shops with unique souvenirs.  Just wander around Old Town and you’ll be sure to stumble on some interesting finds.  One store that is worth noting is the Reaching Out Arts & Crafts shop.  They are a fair trade gift shop that showcases the creations of artisans with disabilities.  They have a beautiful storefront and an open workshop in the back.

 

Custom Tailoring – Hoi An is also well known for its high quality custom tailoring.  This includes suits, dresses, leather handbags and shoes.  In order to ensure that everything is just right, you should allot at least 3 days in Hoi An.  Your first visit will be to select your style, materials, and to get measured.  Your second visit back will be to try on the finished product and have the seamstress mark down any adjustments that need to be made.  And your final visit will be for a final fitting and to take home your new custom clothes.  There are many merchants to choose from in and around Old Town. I didn’t expect to order anything custom-made, but I couldn’t help myself.  It was our last day in Hoi An and I was casually perusing a leather goods store, when the owner told me that they can definitely complete a pair of leather ankle boots for me by early evening (i.e. in 4 hrs!).  I was a bit hesitant, but proceeded to have my feet measured while selecting the leather sample I wanted.  We went back to pick up my boots about 4.5 hours later, and they were ready.  They fit like a glove and I loved them!  However, upon further examination a few weeks later, I noticed that they weren’t perfect.  I guess I anticipated it since they were made with such short notice.  Oh well, I love them anyways 🙂

You can find a pretty good map of Old Town here.

To see where we ate in Hoi An, see my next post.

Tags: beach, Biking, Cafe, Food, hoi an, Restaurant, Vietnam
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Cooking School in Hoi An – 11 Amazing Dishes

June 30, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

The variety of flavours & ingredients in authentic Vietnamese cuisine is fascinating to me.  Coming from Toronto, I already thought we had good exposure to international cuisines, but after visiting Vietnam, I realized just how much more we were missing!  After taking a cooking class in Hoi An, I was able to appreciate the emphasis on fresh ingredients and how to build subtle flavours with herbs and aromatics.  A lot of our dishes started with throwing together a combination of items and mashing them up into a paste with mortar and pestle.

This half-day class was a lot of fun and the great thing is that it’s very hands-on.  But the best part was sampling all the dishes we prepared.  We were 11 people, so we actually made 11 dishes together.  Highly recommended! 🙂

Cooking School:  Green Bamboo   (+84 (0)905815600 van@greenbamboo-hoian.com)
The Itinerary:  You get picked up at your hotel, and the day starts with a trip to the market.  Van takes the time to explain all the weird and wonderful things you’ll encounter.  Then your group will head back to Van’s beautiful home to prepare and cook the dishes you have selected.  Duration:  8 AM to 3 PM

The Rules:

1. Each person gets to pick a dish to prepare from start to finish
2. Be open to new flavours
3. Have fun!

Our extensive menu (yes, we actually made every single dish from scratch with fresh ingredients):

  • Stew pork belly with coconut milk – my favourite!
  • Fish in clay pot (cá kho tộ) with pork belly
  • Fish BBQ in banana leaf (lemon grass, fresh turmeric shallot and garlic)
  • Cha Ca (Hanoi Specialty)
  • Beef noodles soup (Pho Bo)
  • Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf (piper leaves)
  • Stir fry chicken with lemon grass and chili
  • Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic and shallot
  • Stir fry shrimp with lemon grass and chili
  • Fried spring roll with spring onion (shrimp and meat)
  • Fresh spring rolls (spring onion, mint, lemon basil, carrot and green bean) with pork and shrimp

Go to my next post to see where else we ate in Hoi An.

Pork belly simmering in coconut milk

Stew pork belly with coconut milk - final product

Stew pork belly with coconut milk – final product

Fish in clay pot - prepwork

Fish in clay pot – prepwork

Fish in clay pot

Fish in clay pot

Kevin grilling his whole fish

Kevin grilling his whole fish

Fish BBQ in banana leaf

Cha Ca - grilling the fish first

Cha Ca – grilling the fish first

Cha Ca - Step 2 - sauteeing with dill and herbs

Cha Ca – Step 2 – sauteeing with dill and herbs

Cha Ca - plated

Cha Ca – plated

Pho Bo

Pho Bo

Beef La Lot leaf - before grilling

Beef La Lot leaf – before grilling

Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf

Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf

Stir fry chicken with lemongrass & chili

Stir fry chicken with lemongrass & chili

Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic & shallot

Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic & shallot

Stir fry shrimp with lemon grass and chili

Fried Spring Rolls

Fried Spring Rolls

 

Tags: cooking school, Food, Tour, Vietnam
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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 2

June 25, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Today was what I was most excited about while trip-planning – swimming in caves, hiking through jungle & being out in remote countryside – the perfect package 🙂  We woke up early and had a huge breakfast before being picked up by Oxalis.  They took us to their office for payment, tour briefing and getting into our Vietnamese army boots.  Then we were off.

About 1.5 hrs later, we arrived at Tan Hao Village.  Kien (our guide) told us that the dialect in this village is quite different and he can only understand a bit.  What’s very interesting is that there are no written words.  The views by this point were magnificent with incredible 360º views.

We began our trek into the peanut & buffalo fields towards the Rao Nan River.  I am now falling more and more in love with the countryside of Vietnam.  Phong Nha is so beautiful and peaceful.  We crossed the river and walked through corn fields before we got to the tougher portion of our trek.  We scaled large rocks around a mountain and into Hung Ton Valley.  And when we made it around, we had to descend in similar terrain.  The jungle was all around us and it was nice to only be a small group of 6.  We climbed up to the entrance of Hung Ton Cave (one of many caves in the Tulan system).

We learned that limestone is formed from millions of years of fossils being compressed.  The caves in Vietnam have been estimated to be over 400 million years old.  We put on our helmets and headlamps and marched on.  We saw a snail fossil and ‘cave pearls’ (formed by water droplets over a long time).  They looked like perfectly formed and smooth pearls and eggs.  We climbed up and around large formations and finally hit a pool of water, and swam a short distance before we reached To Mo Valley.

It was like walking into a secret, magical place.  A little valley surrounded by jungle and a waterfall.  This was where we stopped for our picnic lunch.  We had a huge spread of BBQ pork, spring rolls, baguettes, & oreos (of course).  We even had freshly made coffee  & tea.  It is a beautiful surprise tucked away between caves.

After lunch, we swam to another cave (Kim Cave).  After a short walk, we reached a 5m drop and got strapped in for the climb down the long wooden ladder.  From there, it was about 2 long swims before we reached the end of the cave.

We climbed up and over more rocks/formations between swims.  As we were swimming, bats were flying very low, zipping right around us.  It was quite an experience.  When we reached the other end of the cave, there was an opening to the jungle outside and it was gorgeous.  We sat there and enjoyed it for a while before retracing our steps/strokes back to To Mo Valley, back through Hung Ton Cave, up the ladder and back out and around the mountain, through the fields and back into the village.

During our walk back, we enjoyed incredible sunset views over the limestone formations.  We also saw buffalo cooling off in their custom made pools (dug out by themselves).  A herd of cattle walked right past us and was amazing to see.  We all gratefully cooled off with huge swigs of cold bia.  On our way back, we drove by “Buffalo City” (little huts built for the buffalo), through Tan Hao Village and back to the Farmstay.  It was almost 8pm before we made it back.  What an unforgettable day!!! 🙂

You can go back to my main page about Son Trach Region to find more details about this area.

p.s. In case you are interested, the tour we took was the “Tulan 1-Day Jungle & Cave Experience”

 

Tags: Adventure, Caves, Countryside, Mountain, Nature, Vietnam
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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 1

June 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

On my last post, I highlighted a few recommended activities while you’re in Son Trach Commune in Central Vietnam.  In this post, I wanted to give you our 3-day itinerary while we were here.  However, if you can stay longer, I really recommend it because there’s so much to do here.

Day 1 – Mountain Biking 

We rented bikes at Phong Nha Farmstay and rode to the Wild Boar Farm, stopping frequently to take photos of the amazing scenery.  The path itself is mostly dirt road, with quite a few bumps and ruts.  It is relatively flat as you ride through the rice fields, and then you will find short, steep spurts as you move further along.  Since this is a multi-use pathway, it is shared by people, motorbikes, chickens, dogs, cows and large buffalo.

Speaking of buffalo…  We were riding along happily when we encountered a herd of about a dozen buffalo coming towards us.  The path was narrow, with vegetation on either side of us.  Quickly assessing our options, there really wasn’t much choice – so we dismounted and stood as far to the left of the path as possible.  Self-preservation was on the top of my mind when I figured that placing my little mountain bike between myself and the oncoming herd was a fantastic idea.  It was like a slow-motion reel at this point as I watched them pass Kevin & meander towards me.  I was so frozen in fear I completely forgot I had the camera & could have captured this amazing moment.  The buffalo stared at me and I stared back…  And in about 4 or 5 min, it was all over.  I breathed out a sigh of relief, and got on my bike again.  This is when I realized the beauty of the countryside.  The wildlife here really don’t care much about me, and we can totally co-exist in peace.  🙂

As you can see in the map below, there is an option to cross a stream, or take an easier & more direct path.  To add spice to our day, we chose to cross the stream.  🙂   When we got there, out of nowhere, a large dump truck decided to cross as well.  We waited our turn & made it across, passed the Pub with Cold Beer and continued making our way to the Wild Boar Farm.

 

We were greeted by the owner (Cuong), who led us to a nice lookout area where we ordered 3 cokes and some freshly roasted peanuts.  We were exhausted, hungry and dehydrated.  This is a great place to cool down from your ride and relax a bit.  We had a chance to lay back and really enjoy the fact that we were in the middle of  the countryside in Vietnam.  Everything just slows down – you forget all the things that stressed you out before you got here, and you can appreciate a simpler life.

When we were ready for our ride back, Cuong motioned us over to the wild boars.  He uprooted a small tree to reveal some sort of root vegetable at the roots (looked kind of like sweet potatoes?).  This is what we used to feed the boars.  And before we left, Kevin got to pet the head of the resident buffalo.  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

It is a very scenic & adventurous (for a novice biker) ride, so definitely worth spending a leisurely morning or afternoon out on your bike.  I took a photo of the map we used & our route is highlighted in aqua.  The entire ride roundtrip (with breaks) took about 4 hours.

DSC07430_2

To continue reading, see Part 2 of our Itinerary.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Things to See & Do

June 12, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Hidden amidst the jungle in Central Vietnam is the most stunning limestone region, complete with massive caves & underground streams.  If you are adventure travelers or nature lovers, you will absolutely LOVE this place!  Plan to spend at least 3 days here to get a taste of what the area has to offer.  The realization that you are just a tiny drop in the proverbial ocean really hits you like a ton of bricks here.

You will find this in the Son Trach Commune in Bo Trach District, Quang Binh Province.  Please see my previous post on how to get here.

The sky is the limit in terms of what you can do in this region.  However, please ensure you have a knowledgeable guide/company take you deeper into the jungle and into caves as there are still unexploded ordnance (UXO) throughout Vietnam.

Depending on how much time you have, mix & match some of the options below to create your own itinerary:

Visit to Hang Son Doong, the World’s Largest Cave
Time:  7 Days/6 Nights
Cost:  $3,000 USD (63,300,000 VND) per person

Discovered in 2009, the cave was opened to the public only recently.  Currently, they are only allowing 84 tourists to visit the cave per year.  This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so if you are interested, check for availability as early as you can.  Here is an interesting video on how researchers surveyed Hang Son Doong.  See the itinerary & details on this tour on the Oxalis Adventure Tours website.  For this particular itinerary, they also have 2 UK caving experts who will accompany you on the tour.

Overnight in TuLan Cave or Hang En Cave
Time:  Tour Options available from 2-4 Days/1-3 Nights
Cost:  $225-475 USD (4,700,000-10,000,000 VND) per person

This is a unique opportunity to trek through jungle, swim through caves & sleep under the stars.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stay overnight in the caves, but we bumped into a group on their way out and they had rave reviews.  A few of the trekkers said it was the best sleep they’ve had in a VERY long time!  Check out the Oxalis website for exact itineraries and pricing.  They have options for 1-4 Day Tours for TuLan Cave, and a 2 Day Tour for Hang En Cave.

Visit Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  40,000-1,200,000 VND per person

Join a tour or go it alone, it’s up to you.  If you have limited time, ride in by motorbike and visit Dark Cave.  For Phong Nha Cave, it will take a bit of organizational work to gather enough people to split the cost of the boat.  If you have a full day, you may want to join the Farmstay National Park Tour and all logistics will be taken care of for you.

Day Trip to Paradise Cave
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  120,000-2,650,000 VND per person

Technically, you can see Paradise Cave while visiting the National Park, but you can only access the first 1km without a guide.  If you want to go deeper into the cave, you can join a tour that will take you 3.5 km into the cave, well past the manmade paths and lights.

Mountain Bike through the Countryside
Time:  3-4 Hours
Cost:  Bike Rental (Check with where you are staying to see if they offer free bike rentals.  Farmstay offers bikes for 20,000 VND per hour)

Grab a map of the area and spend the morning or afternoon riding through the countryside.  Relax at the ‘Pub with Cold Beer’, or catch/kill/cook your own chicken with the ‘Chicken Lady’.  You also can’t miss the ‘Wild Boar Farm’.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region, or continue reading to see what we did while we were in Son Trach.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Tour, Vietnam
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Where to Stay in Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Central Vietnam

June 10, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

The area is still developing and there isn’t too much information regarding accomodations.  A lot of the local hotels are not online so it may be easiest to try to contact those who are and ask for some recommendations if they don’t have vacancy.  Accomodations are generally basic, but clean and comfortable.  It is the authentic countryside we are looking for here, so there aren’t any 4- or 5-star hotels/resorts.

We stayed at Phong Nha Farmstay, which we absolutely loved!  I’ve posted some info below, as well as other options that are available.

Phong Nha Farmstay (Tel: 052 367 5135; Email: phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com) – Located 8km from Phong Nha town & 40 min from Dong Hoi Train Station, you’ll find a beautiful retreat nestled between the rice fields.  Cost is $35/night for a double bed and private washroom (food not included).  The owners, Ben & Bich, as well as the great front desk team, are a wealth of information.  They gave us great suggestions on what we can do for the days we didn’t have a tour booked.  And they were very helpful in answering our questions prior to our arrival, and assisting with advance tour bookings.

Another great thing about Farmstay is their food!  Before and after our very active days, we loaded up on items from their extensive menu & from their daily specials board.  Check out their rooftop in the evening and enjoy the sunset with a drink (bring your camera).  They’ve got a cool contraption that transports ice cold beer directly to you 🙂

 

Easy Tiger Hostel (Tel: 052 367 7844, Email: easytigerphongnha@gmail.com) – Located on the main strip in town, you will find that the hostel provides all the basic essentials, has air conditioning (which is very important), wifi & can easily assist you with arranging transport or tours.  They have a patio in front for you to enjoy some food and drinks.  Cost is $8/night, including breakfast.

 

Hotels Along Main Street – There are a number of options around Easy Tiger Hostel, in the centre of town.  You can find options for private rooms here as well.

 

Pepperhouse Homestay (Tel: 0167  873 1560, Email: info@pepperhouse-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Diem.  $10/night for a dorm bed, including breakfast.

 

Ho Khanh’s Homestay (Tel: 91 679 4506, Email: info@phong-nha-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Ho Khanh and his wife.  Ho Khanh is a local farmer and is also the man who discovered Hang Son Doong, the largest cave in the world.  Bicycles and wifi are free for guests.  Double rooms are 600,000 VND/night.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region.

Tags: Accomodations, Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Getting there & away

June 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Since tourism to the Phong Nha Region in Central Vietnam is still in its early stages of development, you will find that it requires a bit more planning to get here.  I’ve listed some options in order of lowest to highest cost, and also my thoughts on each.  Let me know if you have any questions/comments to add.

 

Motorbike – So, if you’re up for a real adventure, this is the way to go.  We’ve put this on our ‘To Do’ list for the next time we’re back in Vietnam.  If you’re interested, I found a good blog post with details on how to motorbike Vietnam on the Ho Chi Minh Highway.  Just a note of caution…  We met a few people along the way who were motorbiking across the country, and you’ll need to do some pre-planning with regards to where you will stop to rest for the night.  Because you’ll be visiting rural areas that are undeveloped, you may be turned away as a foreigner.  Also, read up on scams as there are some popular ones being used, at least in the cities.  You can email me for more details.

 

Bus –

(a) Local Bus – Local buses are cheapest, but are not very nice.  The Dong Hoi bus station is located at 150 Tran Hung Dao (at the intersection of Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Huu Canh).  Currently, a bus ride between Hue and Son Trach costs 150,000 VND.  You can ask the driver to drop you off at or near your destination.  Just ensure you have it written in Vietnamese.
*Note: Ensure you buy your bus tickets from the ticket office/counter.  If not, you will likely be asked to pay a much higher fee by the driver.  And while you’re being swindled, you’ll likely get yelled at as well.  If you’re uncomfortable, back out and get off the bus.

(b) Minibus between Phong Nha & Hue with Tour – There is a daily bus traveling door-to-door between Hue Backpackers Hostel and Phong Nha Farmstay, which costs 500,000 VND.  This bus passes through the DMZ and makes stops at the Vinh Moc Tunnels & Ben Hai River Museum.  This ride takes 5.5 hours and currently departs Phong Nha Farmstay at 7 AM.

(c) Bus Companies – If you choose this option, please carefully read reviews on whoever you decide on.  There are many companies and it’s not necessarily cheaper.  Here are a few that are popular:  Sinh Cafe Open Tour, Mai Linh, and Boomerang Bus.  At the time of research, there were no terrible reviews against these companies.  There are just a lot of stories about tourists being scammed so I would recommend that you avoid this option if possible.  The trains are just a bit pricier, but at least you know what you’ll be getting.

 

Train – I think this is the best option whether you are coming from the North or South.  Train travel is reliable, but timing may be off depending on whether or not there are delays.  We departed Hanoi on time and arrived 1 hour late in Dong Hoi.  Our 2 soft sleeper tickets from Hanoi to Dong Hoi cost us 1,680,000 VND.  Depending on your budget, you can choose from hard/soft seats and hard/soft sleepers.  The only difference between a hard and soft sleeper is a 2″ mattress pad.  When you arrive at Dong Hoi Train Station, you can hire a taxi to take you into town, or pre-arrange something with whoever you are staying with.  It is about 50km to Son Trach Village (close to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park), and 35km to Phong Nha Farmstay.

 

Air – If you are traveling direct to central Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City (SGN) or Hanoi (HAN), it would be most time-efficient if you flew directly into Dong Hoi (VDH) Airport.  For example, it is only 1 hour 40 min to fly from Hanoi to Dong Hoi.  Currently, Vietnam Airlines operates flights to/from Dong Hoi daily.  And if your timing is right, you can find tickets comparable to soft sleeper train prices.  The airport itself is located 6km north of Dong Hoi.  You can take a taxi into town from here or pre-arrange a pick-up.

Now that you are here, read about what you can do.

Tags: Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Off the Beaten Track in Central Vietnam – Son Trach Commune (Phong Nha Region)

June 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Karsts, Dolines & Caves  …oh my!

With all of these things & more, Bố Trạch district is the perfect combination of beauty, nature & adventure – a haven for backpackers looking to get off the beaten track.

This region only made it onto the tourist map due to recent cave discoveries, with the most famous being Hang Son Doong (officially the largest cave in the world).  Another one of the more known destinations is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.  They can be found in the Bố Trạch district in central Quảng Bình Province.  Bố Trạch district is home to 28 communes and 2 townships, of which the Son Trach commune is a part.  In and around this region, you will find yourself immersed in the miraculous work of nature.  You truly need to experience it to believe it. There are no words to express how I felt while I was there.  I just felt unbelievably grateful that something led me to this place.

This was actually the most difficult part of the trip for us to plan, but also the most rewarding.  There isn’t too much out there in the form of logistical information or details on what you can see and do.  Even my trusty Lonely Planet (11th Edition) failed me this time, and it’s always by my side whenever I travel.  Although, when I got there, I was happy that it wasn’t a highly touristed area, likely because it hasn’t been popularized.  The natural beauty of the region is mostly untouched and you really do feel you are in some sort of Paradise.   Everyone we met while we were there had immense respect for the preservation of the natural environment, and the people and wildlife who inhabit the area.

Anyway, I do hope that you will make a stop here if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.  I wish we could have stayed longer, but could only afford 3 days as our timing was tight…

Since this place has a super special place in my heart, I’m going to spend a couple of posts detailing the area and what we did.

1. Logistics – how to get here & away
2. Accomodations
3. Things to See & Do
4. Our itinerary – what we actually did

Enjoy!  & feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Vietnam
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