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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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Backpacking in Ho Chi Minh City – Cu Chi Tunnels, War Museum and more…

July 31, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City is a very interesting place with its blend of old and new.  The city itself is much more metropolitan compared to its Vietnamese counterparts, with modern cafés & hotels scattered throughout the downtown core.  Past, Present & Future seem to co-exist here in harmony and is embraced fully by the local people.  The locals are happy-go-lucky people with a strong entrepreneurial spirit.  However, there is still a sombreness in the air and a silent respect for what has happened during the War.

Stay:

We stayed at Yen’s Hotel.  It is located centrally in an area that has developed organically into HCMC’s ‘Backpacker District’.  It is down an alley on Pham Ngu Lao.  We were able to walk pretty much everywhere from here.  The Ben Thanh Market is only about a 10 min walk away.

Things To Do:

Half-Day Tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels (8AM-3PM) – We joined a tour on our first day and were picked up by a minivan from our hostel, then driven about 1.5-2 hours outside of HCMC, arriving at the site of the Tunnels in Cu Chi.  Admission was 80,000VND per person (however, the rates seem to have increased since).  The tour costs an additional $6USD per person, which includes a guide and transportation to/from your hotel).  When we arrived, we were ushered into what looked like a barrack, where we watched a video clip about the Cu Chi Tunnels and the War.

We then followed our guide to various stops at the site, including displays of weapons and traps made by the Vietnamese and tanks that have been hollowed out.  The traps are ingenious and really emphasize the fact that the Vietnamese are strong, resourceful people.  With the limited resources they had at the time, you really come to appreciate the natural human instinct for survival.

There is also a gun range on-site where you can try your hand at some of the weapons used at the time (i.e. M16, AK47, etc).  We’ve never been in a shooting range before, so it was a really fun experience.  Make sure you wear the headphones they offer you before walking into the shooting area!

And last, but certainly not the least, we were given the opportunity to crawl through sections of the tunnels on our own.  If you are claustrophobic, you may consider just going down for a quick peek.  We had to squat our way through the tunnels, which is only wide enough for 1-way travel.  It’s amazing to see this intricate network of tunnels and try to imagine what it must have been like in the midst of all the fighting.

 

War Remnants Museum – The extensive collection of photos, stories and articles here is a poignant documentation of the tragic events that took place in Vietnam from 1955-1975.  I really appreciated that the Museum was basic and simple, leaving its visitors with their thoughts as they silently move through the displays.  This is a sobering experience as you are presented with some very difficult facts, and the reality of how humans have chosen to treat each other.  Hopefully this means that we will never make these mistakes again.  We spent about 3-4 hours here.

 

Ben Thanh Market & Night Market – If you thrive on the hustle and bustle of the markets & the thrill of bargaining, look no further than the Ben Thanh Market.  It’s a large indoor market that sells everything you can think of.  It is organized by categories, so check the maps at each main entrance before you let yourself get lost in the maze.  The indoor market closes around 6PM.  Don’t worry though, because the Night Market vendors will start setting up, spilling out onto the nearby streets.  You will find street eats here as well.

 

Colonial Walk of Saigon – Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) has a very colourful history & is worth a read.  On and around Dong Khoi St in District 1, you will find grand buildings in French colonial style.  As you walk past the Rex Hotel, the Continental, the Majestic Hotel & the Opera House, you really do get a sense of the glamour and the intrigue of its glory days.  This area is now home to designer shops and fancy cafés.  Further along, you will find the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office (my personal favourite).

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Tags: Accomodations, budget, Food, ho chi minh, Vietnam
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Backpacking Hoi An – A Food Lover’s Haven

July 15, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Aside from the quaint historical feel of Old Town, it was the promise of tantalizing Vietnamese flavours that drew me to Hoi An.  After  a few days in the countryside, we were ready to fatten up with some authentic Vietnamese food and some of this mysterious Cao lầu (a specialty noodle dish that is found only in Hoi An).

Take a Cooking Class – Our first day was spent at a cooking school, where we sampled 11 different dishes that the group made together.  There are also a number of cooking schools in Hoi An, and each one offers a slightly different itinerary.  Some include a bike ride to the vegetable farm as well, so it depends on what you are looking for.  Morning Glory Restaurant (see below) offers a variety of options.

Sample the Street Food – As if a full day of eating wasn’t enough, we waddled over to Banh Mi Phuong for some of the best banh mi in all of Vietnam.  The bread was out of this world!  Its thing, crispy exterior & light, airy interior contrasts beautifully with the very flavourful (& spicy) filling.  We ordered #5 (Thit Nuong) and it was everything we thought it would be  🙂

Another great place to sample street food is inside the Cho Hoi An (Hoi An Market).  We tried the Mi Quang and the White Rose.  Interesting flavours and worth trying as they are specialties of the area.  I do have to say that we weren’t blown away by them though.

We then wandered deeper into Old Town and ventured close to the water (near the intersection of Bach Dan Street and Le Loi).  We still had yet to try the famous Cau Lau, so we stopped at the busiest street vendor  on the block and sat down on their little plastic stools.  We had a romantic view of the water and were right across from the stage with live traditional music performances.

When we finished dinner, we walked a few steps over to the dessert (Chè) stands and tried their ground black sesame dessert.  It’s flavourful and not as sweet as the Chinese version that we’re more familiar with.  Down another side street in Old Town is a tofu dessert stand operated by the cutest elder lady 🙂  We really enjoyed it and ordered a second serving!

Morning Glory Street Food Restaurant and Cooking School – Nestled inside Old Town (106 Nguyen Thai Hoc), this restaurant is super popular and reservations are highly recommended.  They were fully booked every night we were in Hoi An and I can see why.  They have a very extensive menu, so you really wouldn’t be bored going back 2 or even 3 times.  We went for lunch AND dinner on the same day!  Keeping the flavours of Hoi An street food alive, their menu offers specialties from the Hoi An area and other traditional Vietnamese dishes as well.  We sampled a wide range of dishes, and especially enjoyed their chicken and mint salad (Goi Ga) and traditional chicken with rice (Com Ga Hoi An).  However, what truly stands out is their condensed frozen yogurt dessert (Ya-out).  Try it if you have a chance!

Cargo Club – Owned by the same people, this restaurant/cafe/boulangerie is right across the street from Morning Glory (107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc) and offers up a drastically different menu.  Cargo Club serves a great western breakfast, cakes, pastries, homemade ice cream, specialty drinks and coffee, and western and vietnamese fine dining.  It’s a really great stop no matter what time of day.

Reaching Out Teahouse – This is a really special place, and a great way to escape the hustle and bustle of Hoi An tourism while enjoying a nice cup of tea (131 Tran Phu).  The servers are speech and hearing impaired, which lends itself to the tranquil environment; and a lot of the beautiful handicraft products in the teahouse are made by the artisans at Reaching out Arts and Crafts store just around the corner.

Go back to my main post on Hoi An.

Banh Mi Phuong

Banh Mi Phuong – Menu

Our tasty banh mi 🙂

Cho Hoi An

The stall we ate at in the market

Mi Quang

White Rose

Tofu Dessert Lady

Me & My Cau Lau

Street Food – Dessert Menu

Spring Rolls @ Morning Glory

Goi Ga @ Morning Glory

Com Ga @ Morning Glory

Ya-out @ Morning Glory

Tags: Cafe, Food, hoi an, Restaurant, Tea, Vietnam
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Roaming the streets of Quaint Hoi An

July 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Enroute from Central Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City is Hoi An, a quaint historic town with some great stops for the traveling foodie.  Although the architecture has been preserved, its Old Town is now home to nice shops, restaurants and cafés to cater to the large number of tourists that Hoi An attracts.  You’ll find that everything is very walkable, or you can rent cruiser bikes to take you around (check with your hotel to see if they offer use of their bicycles for free). We stayed in Hoi An for 2 days and I think that is more than sufficient, unless you are looking to order custom tailored clothing. DSC08016 DSC08127

 

Where we stayed: Vaia Boutique Hotel – We enjoyed our stay here for 3 nights, which included daily breakfast.  The room was comfortable and had air conditioning, which was really nice.  The hotel offers free use of their cruiser bikes.  Cleanliness wasn’t excellent.  Location is decent.  Although it’s not located in the centre of town, the hotel is only a short work into Old Town (approximately 10 min).

 

Things to Do:

Take a Cooking Class – We joined a cooking class with Green Bamboo.  I have a separate post on this as it is pretty long and heavy on the photos.  We were a class of 11 people, which meant we had the opportunity to sample a wide range of dishes.  Highly recommended!

 

Stroll Along the Beach – Our hotel offered bicycles for free, so we took them out to Cua Dai Beach, which was about 4 km (15-20 min).  We were stopped & asked to park our bikes in a lot (paid 10,000 VND), which is odd because we later saw other people with bikes riding around closer to the beach. I had read some reviews about the beach being touristy, but I didn’t really feel that way.  We walked further along the beach, and soon we were pretty much alone.  The sand is nice and soft, perfect for building sand castles.  🙂  Taking a break from all that hard work, you can relax on some lounge chairs and sip on some cold drinks.  I was surprised to see that the prices here were considerably cheaper than ordering drinks in Old Town.  Most of the lounge chairs are operated by independent local shops, although some are run by larger resorts.  Being huge advocates for supporting local businesses, we opted for a small shop.

 

DSC08064 DSC08102 Indulge in the Wonderful Flavours of Vietnamese Food – We did a LOT of eating while we were in Hoi An – sampling the cafés, restaurants and street food.  See my post on eating in Hoi An.

 

Go Shopping – There are many cute little shops with unique souvenirs.  Just wander around Old Town and you’ll be sure to stumble on some interesting finds.  One store that is worth noting is the Reaching Out Arts & Crafts shop.  They are a fair trade gift shop that showcases the creations of artisans with disabilities.  They have a beautiful storefront and an open workshop in the back.

 

Custom Tailoring – Hoi An is also well known for its high quality custom tailoring.  This includes suits, dresses, leather handbags and shoes.  In order to ensure that everything is just right, you should allot at least 3 days in Hoi An.  Your first visit will be to select your style, materials, and to get measured.  Your second visit back will be to try on the finished product and have the seamstress mark down any adjustments that need to be made.  And your final visit will be for a final fitting and to take home your new custom clothes.  There are many merchants to choose from in and around Old Town. I didn’t expect to order anything custom-made, but I couldn’t help myself.  It was our last day in Hoi An and I was casually perusing a leather goods store, when the owner told me that they can definitely complete a pair of leather ankle boots for me by early evening (i.e. in 4 hrs!).  I was a bit hesitant, but proceeded to have my feet measured while selecting the leather sample I wanted.  We went back to pick up my boots about 4.5 hours later, and they were ready.  They fit like a glove and I loved them!  However, upon further examination a few weeks later, I noticed that they weren’t perfect.  I guess I anticipated it since they were made with such short notice.  Oh well, I love them anyways 🙂

You can find a pretty good map of Old Town here.

To see where we ate in Hoi An, see my next post.

Tags: beach, Biking, Cafe, Food, hoi an, Restaurant, Vietnam
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Cooking School in Hoi An – 11 Amazing Dishes

June 30, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

The variety of flavours & ingredients in authentic Vietnamese cuisine is fascinating to me.  Coming from Toronto, I already thought we had good exposure to international cuisines, but after visiting Vietnam, I realized just how much more we were missing!  After taking a cooking class in Hoi An, I was able to appreciate the emphasis on fresh ingredients and how to build subtle flavours with herbs and aromatics.  A lot of our dishes started with throwing together a combination of items and mashing them up into a paste with mortar and pestle.

This half-day class was a lot of fun and the great thing is that it’s very hands-on.  But the best part was sampling all the dishes we prepared.  We were 11 people, so we actually made 11 dishes together.  Highly recommended! 🙂

Cooking School:  Green Bamboo   (+84 (0)905815600 van@greenbamboo-hoian.com)
The Itinerary:  You get picked up at your hotel, and the day starts with a trip to the market.  Van takes the time to explain all the weird and wonderful things you’ll encounter.  Then your group will head back to Van’s beautiful home to prepare and cook the dishes you have selected.  Duration:  8 AM to 3 PM

The Rules:

1. Each person gets to pick a dish to prepare from start to finish
2. Be open to new flavours
3. Have fun!

Our extensive menu (yes, we actually made every single dish from scratch with fresh ingredients):

  • Stew pork belly with coconut milk – my favourite!
  • Fish in clay pot (cá kho tộ) with pork belly
  • Fish BBQ in banana leaf (lemon grass, fresh turmeric shallot and garlic)
  • Cha Ca (Hanoi Specialty)
  • Beef noodles soup (Pho Bo)
  • Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf (piper leaves)
  • Stir fry chicken with lemon grass and chili
  • Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic and shallot
  • Stir fry shrimp with lemon grass and chili
  • Fried spring roll with spring onion (shrimp and meat)
  • Fresh spring rolls (spring onion, mint, lemon basil, carrot and green bean) with pork and shrimp

Go to my next post to see where else we ate in Hoi An.

Pork belly simmering in coconut milk

Stew pork belly with coconut milk - final product

Stew pork belly with coconut milk – final product

Fish in clay pot - prepwork

Fish in clay pot – prepwork

Fish in clay pot

Fish in clay pot

Kevin grilling his whole fish

Kevin grilling his whole fish

Fish BBQ in banana leaf

Cha Ca - grilling the fish first

Cha Ca – grilling the fish first

Cha Ca - Step 2 - sauteeing with dill and herbs

Cha Ca – Step 2 – sauteeing with dill and herbs

Cha Ca - plated

Cha Ca – plated

Pho Bo

Pho Bo

Beef La Lot leaf - before grilling

Beef La Lot leaf – before grilling

Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf

Beef BBQ in La Lot leaf

Stir fry chicken with lemongrass & chili

Stir fry chicken with lemongrass & chili

Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic & shallot

Chicken rissoles with lemon grass, garlic & shallot

Stir fry shrimp with lemon grass and chili

Fried Spring Rolls

Fried Spring Rolls

 

Tags: cooking school, Food, Tour, Vietnam
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Restaurants in Sapa Town

May 16, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Vietnamese cuisine is all about the aromatic herbs and subtle flavours; using fresh ingredients to create quiet masterpieces on a plate.  Since Sapa was our first stop in Vietnam, I was really excited to try all the traditional dishes.  Here are the restaurants we were able to sample while we were in Sapa:

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Panorama (39 Fanxipang Street):  The restaurant is located upstairs, and they also have a cooking school.  We each ordered our own Pho Gai & shared veggies, rice, papaya salad & fresh juices.  Everything was very good, but what stood out was the papaya salad.  & of course, the pineapple juice!

 

Relaxing @ Baguette & Chocolat

Baguette & Chocolat (Thac Bac Street): Great little café/restaurant with a very nice outdoor seating area.  We enjoyed some downtime here to catch up on some reading and writing.  They have an extensive menu of food, snacks & pastries, all for a good cause.  It is a not-for-profit business that is aimed at providing training for disadvantaged youth so that they have the skills to work in the hospitality industry.

 

My fave vegetable spring rolls @ Red Camelia

Red Camelia (30 Pho Cau May):  Our first dinner was at this bustling, candlelit restaurant.  When we arrived, they were already quite busy, so we figured the food must be good here – & it was!  To accompany our beer, we ordered fresh vegetable spring rolls with peanuts & mint (my favourite!), veggies with rice, and lemongrass sesame chicken on a hot plate with fries.  & although we were already stuffed, we got another order of the vegetable spring rolls because I liked them so much.  🙂  The only issue was that they decided to give us the same bowl of fish sauce for dipping when they came back with our second order (oh well).

 

Grilled Fish @ Little Sapa

Little Sapa (18 Pho Cau May):  We had another very tasty dinner here, with fresh beef spring rolls, fried choko with garlic, veggies, grilled lemongrass ginger fish on a hot plate, and a bowl of mixed fruits for dessert.  The restaurant is really busy and all the tables were consistently full.

 

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion (27 Pho Cau May):  This restaurant is busy throughout the day, with people sitting on their pretty patio for a drink between meals.  The food is excellent.  They even pack your dinner to go for those who are taking the overnight train back to Hanoi.

Tags: Food, Restaurant, sapa, Vietnam
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Restaurants in Hanoi – Where to find Authentic Vietnamese Specialties

May 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Quan An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau) – The concept behind this super-popular restaurant chain in Vietnam is very interesting.  Serving up traditional home-cooked dishes and Vietnamese “street food”, this restaurant offers an extensive menu of small eats and main dishes.  My favourite was the Banh Xeo (above right).  The egg is so thin and crispy!  Servers here will teach you how to put your dish together, so ask them if you’re unsure.

This restaurant is a must try in Hanoi!  Being only about 8 min (by foot) from Hanoi train station, it’s a great stop before your overnight train ride.

 

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Cha Ca

Cha Ca Thang Long (21-31 Duong Thanh) – This restaurant serves only 1 dish, Cha Ca, which is a Hanoi specialty. Making this dish requires cooking the fish twice. First, chunks of fish fillet are seasoned and grilled in banana leaves. Then the fish is sautéed in a pan with lots of dill, spring onion, chives, mint, and coriander. Once ready to eat, it is served with cold rice noodle, roasted peanuts and shrimp paste/fish sauce. The result is a very tender & fragrant fish. Your server will come by and show you how to put it all together. This was a tasty & fun experience 🙂

 

Our spread 🙂



Bun Cha Nem Cua be Dac Kim (67 Duong Thanh) – We each had an order of Bun Cha (60,000 VND) with a spring roll (15,000 VND). This tiny little shop offers a small menu, but everything is super tasty!

 

 

 

Pho Gia Truyen (49 Bat Dan) – Best Pho we had on our entire trip in Vietnam! The soup base was very clear and flavourful – perfection in a bowl. There are long lineups and you’ll need to squeeze in wherever you can find a stool at the table, but it’s worth the wait.


 

Tags: Food, hanoi, Vietnam
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Cafes in Hanoi – including where to find Egg White Coffee

May 2, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Café Pho Co (11 Hang gai) – Quaint coffee shop with a view.  It’s a bit hard to find since it is down a narrow corridor between 2 clothing shops.  We placed our order on the ground floor and then proceeded up the first flight of stairs.  You’ll need to walk to the back of the second floor before you reach a narrow spiral staircase.  Scale this & you will be rewarded with a terrace overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake.  The shop is quite busy, so if there are no seats, try the next floor up.  We ordered their egg white coffee and coffee with yogurt.  The egg white coffee was creamy & smooth, with a taste reminiscent of tiramisu.  The coffee with yogurt tasted like  coffee-flavoured Yakult.

 
 

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Me @ Puku Cafe in the wee morning hours

 
 
 
 
Puku Café & Sports Bar (16-18 Tong Duy Tan) – The best thing about Puku Café is that it’s open 24 hours.  Being about a 15 min walk from the train station, it’s perfect for arriving early in the morning after an overnight commute.  Their food and drinks are alright, but almost anything is good when you arrive hungry.

 

 

On our final day in Hanoi, we went to try out Joma Café (we were at the Joma Tong Duy Tan location).  It is a chain of cafés that remind me of North American chains.  There’s nothing authentically Vietnamese about this place, but you do appreciate the air conditioning.  We ordered some cold juices & chocolate chip cookies (which were VERY tasty!)  🙂  It’s a great place to catch up on some reading & writing too.

See my next post featuring Restaurants in Hanoi.

Tags: Cafe, coffee, Food, hanoi, Vietnam
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