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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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Climbing Hua Shan – “One of the most terrifying hikes in the world”

September 25, 2014 in Asia, China, Destinations

Hua Shan (华山) was the highlight of our trip to China, & also the most physically challenging.  The views were amazing – and the sheer rock faces were quite literally breathtaking!  Photos don’t do it any justice so you’ll just need to head there to see it for yourself 🙂  And if you aren’t up for making the climb on foot, there’s a cable car that takes you very close to the North Peak.  From there, you can hike to any of the 5 peaks (see a map of the mountain trails at the end of this post).

Just a warning that this post is going to be a bit photo-intensive, so I’ll write a separate post  on how to get to/from Hua Shan.  Since we didn’t have a lot of time, we only made it to the North Peak.  We will definitely be back & next time we’ll stay on the mountain overnight to hike to the other peaks.

There are 2 ticket booths, one for the cable car and the other for the foot path.  There was no one when we arrived to buy tickets at the Western Gate (which is about a 10-15min walk from where the bus drops you off).  From there, it is an uphill climb to the North Peak, with the last 3km being very steep.  You will need to hang onto the rusty chains to steady yourself as the steps are narrow, uneven and steep.  Also, these paths get pretty narrow considering they expect two-way traffic to flow.  We brought gloves with us and were really glad we had them.

Breakfast of champions :)

Breakfast of champions 🙂

Enroute to the Western Gate ticket office

Enroute to the Western Gate ticket office

A comforting message for a safe climb

A comforting message for a safe climb

Got our tickets!

Got our tickets!

Spiritual start to our climb

Spiritual start to our climb

The first 2km weren't too difficult. Steps were nice & even and paths were wider

The first 2km weren’t too difficult. Steps were nice & even and paths were wider

Locks of love

Locks of love

Beautiful views about halfway up

Beautiful views about halfway up

There was a fork in the road and we weren't sure which way to go.  We followed the path on the right.

There was a fork in the road and we weren’t sure which way to go. We followed the path on the right (towards the Thousand Feet Cliff).

Steeper climb...

Steeper climb…

Neverending stairs...

Neverending stairs…

 

Reaching the Thousand Feet Cliff

Reaching the Thousand Feet Cliff

Much narrower and steeper

Much narrower and steeper

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The climb

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Looking back… Had to hang on tight for this one

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Another view from further up

Selfie before continuing the climb

Selfie before continuing the climb

Upwards & onwards

Upwards & onwards

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Steps have gotten pretty narrow here

Looking back one last time.  Pretty steep

Looking back one last time. Pretty steep

Made it to the Cable Car Station

Made it to the Cable Car Station

Views from close to the North Peak

Views from close to the North Peak

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Made it!!!  3hr15min to the North Peak :)

Made it!!! 3hr15min to the North Peak 🙂

The Soldier's Path - a different footpath (steeper & shorter) that  follows the cable car route

The Soldier’s Path – a different footpath (steeper) that follows the cable car route

Refreshing drink from Happy Lemon back in Xian! :)

Refreshing drink from Happy Lemon back in Xian! 🙂

Map of Hua Shan

Map of Hua Shan

To read more about the mountains we climbed in China, go here.

Tags: Adventure, budget, China, Countryside, Mountain, Nature
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Searching for Quietude – Climbing Mountains in China

September 20, 2014 in Asia, China

Ever since I was a little girl, I had admired the sense of serenity and solitude depicted by the traditional ink and wash paintings of the Sacred Mountains of China.  The beautiful guóhuà (國畫) and the mythological stories my Dad used to tell us before bed were the main reasons behind my trip to China.  Born & raised in Canada, I was on a mission to travel to some of these mountains, and also to learn more about the country and culture.

My pre-trip planning wasn’t very fruitful when it came to figuring out how to get to the mountains on my own, and even less information was available about navigating the mountains themselves.  Now that I have triumphantly returned, I want to share my experiences & provide all the logistics required to get to and from Hua Shan (华山) & Huang Shan (黄山).

Throughout our trip,  we noticed that most of the tour groups and tourists were National Chinese, and many were sporting loud megaphones.  However, I thought it would be different when we escaped to the mountains.  I was wrong…  There were Chinese tour groups everywhere.  Well, at least at the top of the mountain and at the cable car stations.  Since we decided we were going to make it up the mountain by foot, we did manage to sneak off from the crowds and enjoy moments of peace on our own.  My most favourite moments by far from my entire China trip were the mountain treks – although it was definitely a reflective journey, it was also a physical & mental challenge, forcing me to face my severe fear of heights.

If you are considering a trip to China, I highly recommend including at least one visit to a Sacred Mountain.  Whether you choose to hike up on foot or take the cable car, I think it’s worth the detour.

Since I want to share full details about each mountain, I am breaking them into separate posts for easier reading:
1. Hua Shan – famous among tourists as the “most dangerous hiking trail in the world”
2. Huang Shan – also known as Yellow Mountain, it is the subject of many traditional Chinese paintings and literature

If you have any questions, just send me an email & I’d be happy to help.

See more mountain climbing adventures from my trip to Vietnam.

Tags: Adventure, China, Countryside, Mountain, Nature
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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 2

June 25, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Today was what I was most excited about while trip-planning – swimming in caves, hiking through jungle & being out in remote countryside – the perfect package 🙂  We woke up early and had a huge breakfast before being picked up by Oxalis.  They took us to their office for payment, tour briefing and getting into our Vietnamese army boots.  Then we were off.

About 1.5 hrs later, we arrived at Tan Hao Village.  Kien (our guide) told us that the dialect in this village is quite different and he can only understand a bit.  What’s very interesting is that there are no written words.  The views by this point were magnificent with incredible 360º views.

We began our trek into the peanut & buffalo fields towards the Rao Nan River.  I am now falling more and more in love with the countryside of Vietnam.  Phong Nha is so beautiful and peaceful.  We crossed the river and walked through corn fields before we got to the tougher portion of our trek.  We scaled large rocks around a mountain and into Hung Ton Valley.  And when we made it around, we had to descend in similar terrain.  The jungle was all around us and it was nice to only be a small group of 6.  We climbed up to the entrance of Hung Ton Cave (one of many caves in the Tulan system).

We learned that limestone is formed from millions of years of fossils being compressed.  The caves in Vietnam have been estimated to be over 400 million years old.  We put on our helmets and headlamps and marched on.  We saw a snail fossil and ‘cave pearls’ (formed by water droplets over a long time).  They looked like perfectly formed and smooth pearls and eggs.  We climbed up and around large formations and finally hit a pool of water, and swam a short distance before we reached To Mo Valley.

It was like walking into a secret, magical place.  A little valley surrounded by jungle and a waterfall.  This was where we stopped for our picnic lunch.  We had a huge spread of BBQ pork, spring rolls, baguettes, & oreos (of course).  We even had freshly made coffee  & tea.  It is a beautiful surprise tucked away between caves.

After lunch, we swam to another cave (Kim Cave).  After a short walk, we reached a 5m drop and got strapped in for the climb down the long wooden ladder.  From there, it was about 2 long swims before we reached the end of the cave.

We climbed up and over more rocks/formations between swims.  As we were swimming, bats were flying very low, zipping right around us.  It was quite an experience.  When we reached the other end of the cave, there was an opening to the jungle outside and it was gorgeous.  We sat there and enjoyed it for a while before retracing our steps/strokes back to To Mo Valley, back through Hung Ton Cave, up the ladder and back out and around the mountain, through the fields and back into the village.

During our walk back, we enjoyed incredible sunset views over the limestone formations.  We also saw buffalo cooling off in their custom made pools (dug out by themselves).  A herd of cattle walked right past us and was amazing to see.  We all gratefully cooled off with huge swigs of cold bia.  On our way back, we drove by “Buffalo City” (little huts built for the buffalo), through Tan Hao Village and back to the Farmstay.  It was almost 8pm before we made it back.  What an unforgettable day!!! 🙂

You can go back to my main page about Son Trach Region to find more details about this area.

p.s. In case you are interested, the tour we took was the “Tulan 1-Day Jungle & Cave Experience”

 

Tags: Adventure, Caves, Countryside, Mountain, Nature, Vietnam
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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 1

June 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

On my last post, I highlighted a few recommended activities while you’re in Son Trach Commune in Central Vietnam.  In this post, I wanted to give you our 3-day itinerary while we were here.  However, if you can stay longer, I really recommend it because there’s so much to do here.

Day 1 – Mountain Biking 

We rented bikes at Phong Nha Farmstay and rode to the Wild Boar Farm, stopping frequently to take photos of the amazing scenery.  The path itself is mostly dirt road, with quite a few bumps and ruts.  It is relatively flat as you ride through the rice fields, and then you will find short, steep spurts as you move further along.  Since this is a multi-use pathway, it is shared by people, motorbikes, chickens, dogs, cows and large buffalo.

Speaking of buffalo…  We were riding along happily when we encountered a herd of about a dozen buffalo coming towards us.  The path was narrow, with vegetation on either side of us.  Quickly assessing our options, there really wasn’t much choice – so we dismounted and stood as far to the left of the path as possible.  Self-preservation was on the top of my mind when I figured that placing my little mountain bike between myself and the oncoming herd was a fantastic idea.  It was like a slow-motion reel at this point as I watched them pass Kevin & meander towards me.  I was so frozen in fear I completely forgot I had the camera & could have captured this amazing moment.  The buffalo stared at me and I stared back…  And in about 4 or 5 min, it was all over.  I breathed out a sigh of relief, and got on my bike again.  This is when I realized the beauty of the countryside.  The wildlife here really don’t care much about me, and we can totally co-exist in peace.  🙂

As you can see in the map below, there is an option to cross a stream, or take an easier & more direct path.  To add spice to our day, we chose to cross the stream.  🙂   When we got there, out of nowhere, a large dump truck decided to cross as well.  We waited our turn & made it across, passed the Pub with Cold Beer and continued making our way to the Wild Boar Farm.

 

We were greeted by the owner (Cuong), who led us to a nice lookout area where we ordered 3 cokes and some freshly roasted peanuts.  We were exhausted, hungry and dehydrated.  This is a great place to cool down from your ride and relax a bit.  We had a chance to lay back and really enjoy the fact that we were in the middle of  the countryside in Vietnam.  Everything just slows down – you forget all the things that stressed you out before you got here, and you can appreciate a simpler life.

When we were ready for our ride back, Cuong motioned us over to the wild boars.  He uprooted a small tree to reveal some sort of root vegetable at the roots (looked kind of like sweet potatoes?).  This is what we used to feed the boars.  And before we left, Kevin got to pet the head of the resident buffalo.  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

It is a very scenic & adventurous (for a novice biker) ride, so definitely worth spending a leisurely morning or afternoon out on your bike.  I took a photo of the map we used & our route is highlighted in aqua.  The entire ride roundtrip (with breaks) took about 4 hours.

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To continue reading, see Part 2 of our Itinerary.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Things to See & Do

June 12, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Hidden amidst the jungle in Central Vietnam is the most stunning limestone region, complete with massive caves & underground streams.  If you are adventure travelers or nature lovers, you will absolutely LOVE this place!  Plan to spend at least 3 days here to get a taste of what the area has to offer.  The realization that you are just a tiny drop in the proverbial ocean really hits you like a ton of bricks here.

You will find this in the Son Trach Commune in Bo Trach District, Quang Binh Province.  Please see my previous post on how to get here.

The sky is the limit in terms of what you can do in this region.  However, please ensure you have a knowledgeable guide/company take you deeper into the jungle and into caves as there are still unexploded ordnance (UXO) throughout Vietnam.

Depending on how much time you have, mix & match some of the options below to create your own itinerary:

Visit to Hang Son Doong, the World’s Largest Cave
Time:  7 Days/6 Nights
Cost:  $3,000 USD (63,300,000 VND) per person

Discovered in 2009, the cave was opened to the public only recently.  Currently, they are only allowing 84 tourists to visit the cave per year.  This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so if you are interested, check for availability as early as you can.  Here is an interesting video on how researchers surveyed Hang Son Doong.  See the itinerary & details on this tour on the Oxalis Adventure Tours website.  For this particular itinerary, they also have 2 UK caving experts who will accompany you on the tour.

Overnight in TuLan Cave or Hang En Cave
Time:  Tour Options available from 2-4 Days/1-3 Nights
Cost:  $225-475 USD (4,700,000-10,000,000 VND) per person

This is a unique opportunity to trek through jungle, swim through caves & sleep under the stars.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stay overnight in the caves, but we bumped into a group on their way out and they had rave reviews.  A few of the trekkers said it was the best sleep they’ve had in a VERY long time!  Check out the Oxalis website for exact itineraries and pricing.  They have options for 1-4 Day Tours for TuLan Cave, and a 2 Day Tour for Hang En Cave.

Visit Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  40,000-1,200,000 VND per person

Join a tour or go it alone, it’s up to you.  If you have limited time, ride in by motorbike and visit Dark Cave.  For Phong Nha Cave, it will take a bit of organizational work to gather enough people to split the cost of the boat.  If you have a full day, you may want to join the Farmstay National Park Tour and all logistics will be taken care of for you.

Day Trip to Paradise Cave
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  120,000-2,650,000 VND per person

Technically, you can see Paradise Cave while visiting the National Park, but you can only access the first 1km without a guide.  If you want to go deeper into the cave, you can join a tour that will take you 3.5 km into the cave, well past the manmade paths and lights.

Mountain Bike through the Countryside
Time:  3-4 Hours
Cost:  Bike Rental (Check with where you are staying to see if they offer free bike rentals.  Farmstay offers bikes for 20,000 VND per hour)

Grab a map of the area and spend the morning or afternoon riding through the countryside.  Relax at the ‘Pub with Cold Beer’, or catch/kill/cook your own chicken with the ‘Chicken Lady’.  You also can’t miss the ‘Wild Boar Farm’.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region, or continue reading to see what we did while we were in Son Trach.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Tour, Vietnam
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Where to Stay in Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Central Vietnam

June 10, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

The area is still developing and there isn’t too much information regarding accomodations.  A lot of the local hotels are not online so it may be easiest to try to contact those who are and ask for some recommendations if they don’t have vacancy.  Accomodations are generally basic, but clean and comfortable.  It is the authentic countryside we are looking for here, so there aren’t any 4- or 5-star hotels/resorts.

We stayed at Phong Nha Farmstay, which we absolutely loved!  I’ve posted some info below, as well as other options that are available.

Phong Nha Farmstay (Tel: 052 367 5135; Email: phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com) – Located 8km from Phong Nha town & 40 min from Dong Hoi Train Station, you’ll find a beautiful retreat nestled between the rice fields.  Cost is $35/night for a double bed and private washroom (food not included).  The owners, Ben & Bich, as well as the great front desk team, are a wealth of information.  They gave us great suggestions on what we can do for the days we didn’t have a tour booked.  And they were very helpful in answering our questions prior to our arrival, and assisting with advance tour bookings.

Another great thing about Farmstay is their food!  Before and after our very active days, we loaded up on items from their extensive menu & from their daily specials board.  Check out their rooftop in the evening and enjoy the sunset with a drink (bring your camera).  They’ve got a cool contraption that transports ice cold beer directly to you 🙂

 

Easy Tiger Hostel (Tel: 052 367 7844, Email: easytigerphongnha@gmail.com) – Located on the main strip in town, you will find that the hostel provides all the basic essentials, has air conditioning (which is very important), wifi & can easily assist you with arranging transport or tours.  They have a patio in front for you to enjoy some food and drinks.  Cost is $8/night, including breakfast.

 

Hotels Along Main Street – There are a number of options around Easy Tiger Hostel, in the centre of town.  You can find options for private rooms here as well.

 

Pepperhouse Homestay (Tel: 0167  873 1560, Email: info@pepperhouse-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Diem.  $10/night for a dorm bed, including breakfast.

 

Ho Khanh’s Homestay (Tel: 91 679 4506, Email: info@phong-nha-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Ho Khanh and his wife.  Ho Khanh is a local farmer and is also the man who discovered Hang Son Doong, the largest cave in the world.  Bicycles and wifi are free for guests.  Double rooms are 600,000 VND/night.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region.

Tags: Accomodations, Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Getting there & away

June 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Since tourism to the Phong Nha Region in Central Vietnam is still in its early stages of development, you will find that it requires a bit more planning to get here.  I’ve listed some options in order of lowest to highest cost, and also my thoughts on each.  Let me know if you have any questions/comments to add.

 

Motorbike – So, if you’re up for a real adventure, this is the way to go.  We’ve put this on our ‘To Do’ list for the next time we’re back in Vietnam.  If you’re interested, I found a good blog post with details on how to motorbike Vietnam on the Ho Chi Minh Highway.  Just a note of caution…  We met a few people along the way who were motorbiking across the country, and you’ll need to do some pre-planning with regards to where you will stop to rest for the night.  Because you’ll be visiting rural areas that are undeveloped, you may be turned away as a foreigner.  Also, read up on scams as there are some popular ones being used, at least in the cities.  You can email me for more details.

 

Bus –

(a) Local Bus – Local buses are cheapest, but are not very nice.  The Dong Hoi bus station is located at 150 Tran Hung Dao (at the intersection of Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Huu Canh).  Currently, a bus ride between Hue and Son Trach costs 150,000 VND.  You can ask the driver to drop you off at or near your destination.  Just ensure you have it written in Vietnamese.
*Note: Ensure you buy your bus tickets from the ticket office/counter.  If not, you will likely be asked to pay a much higher fee by the driver.  And while you’re being swindled, you’ll likely get yelled at as well.  If you’re uncomfortable, back out and get off the bus.

(b) Minibus between Phong Nha & Hue with Tour – There is a daily bus traveling door-to-door between Hue Backpackers Hostel and Phong Nha Farmstay, which costs 500,000 VND.  This bus passes through the DMZ and makes stops at the Vinh Moc Tunnels & Ben Hai River Museum.  This ride takes 5.5 hours and currently departs Phong Nha Farmstay at 7 AM.

(c) Bus Companies – If you choose this option, please carefully read reviews on whoever you decide on.  There are many companies and it’s not necessarily cheaper.  Here are a few that are popular:  Sinh Cafe Open Tour, Mai Linh, and Boomerang Bus.  At the time of research, there were no terrible reviews against these companies.  There are just a lot of stories about tourists being scammed so I would recommend that you avoid this option if possible.  The trains are just a bit pricier, but at least you know what you’ll be getting.

 

Train – I think this is the best option whether you are coming from the North or South.  Train travel is reliable, but timing may be off depending on whether or not there are delays.  We departed Hanoi on time and arrived 1 hour late in Dong Hoi.  Our 2 soft sleeper tickets from Hanoi to Dong Hoi cost us 1,680,000 VND.  Depending on your budget, you can choose from hard/soft seats and hard/soft sleepers.  The only difference between a hard and soft sleeper is a 2″ mattress pad.  When you arrive at Dong Hoi Train Station, you can hire a taxi to take you into town, or pre-arrange something with whoever you are staying with.  It is about 50km to Son Trach Village (close to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park), and 35km to Phong Nha Farmstay.

 

Air – If you are traveling direct to central Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City (SGN) or Hanoi (HAN), it would be most time-efficient if you flew directly into Dong Hoi (VDH) Airport.  For example, it is only 1 hour 40 min to fly from Hanoi to Dong Hoi.  Currently, Vietnam Airlines operates flights to/from Dong Hoi daily.  And if your timing is right, you can find tickets comparable to soft sleeper train prices.  The airport itself is located 6km north of Dong Hoi.  You can take a taxi into town from here or pre-arrange a pick-up.

Now that you are here, read about what you can do.

Tags: Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Off the Beaten Track in Central Vietnam – Son Trach Commune (Phong Nha Region)

June 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Karsts, Dolines & Caves  …oh my!

With all of these things & more, Bố Trạch district is the perfect combination of beauty, nature & adventure – a haven for backpackers looking to get off the beaten track.

This region only made it onto the tourist map due to recent cave discoveries, with the most famous being Hang Son Doong (officially the largest cave in the world).  Another one of the more known destinations is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.  They can be found in the Bố Trạch district in central Quảng Bình Province.  Bố Trạch district is home to 28 communes and 2 townships, of which the Son Trach commune is a part.  In and around this region, you will find yourself immersed in the miraculous work of nature.  You truly need to experience it to believe it. There are no words to express how I felt while I was there.  I just felt unbelievably grateful that something led me to this place.

This was actually the most difficult part of the trip for us to plan, but also the most rewarding.  There isn’t too much out there in the form of logistical information or details on what you can see and do.  Even my trusty Lonely Planet (11th Edition) failed me this time, and it’s always by my side whenever I travel.  Although, when I got there, I was happy that it wasn’t a highly touristed area, likely because it hasn’t been popularized.  The natural beauty of the region is mostly untouched and you really do feel you are in some sort of Paradise.   Everyone we met while we were there had immense respect for the preservation of the natural environment, and the people and wildlife who inhabit the area.

Anyway, I do hope that you will make a stop here if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.  I wish we could have stayed longer, but could only afford 3 days as our timing was tight…

Since this place has a super special place in my heart, I’m going to spend a couple of posts detailing the area and what we did.

1. Logistics – how to get here & away
2. Accomodations
3. Things to See & Do
4. Our itinerary – what we actually did

Enjoy!  & feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Vietnam
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Backpacking in Sapa – 3 Day Itinerary

April 16, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Day 1 – Cat Cat Village & Sapa Town:

Fresh off the overnight train from Hanoi, we arrived at our hotel tired & hungry.  First things first, we ordered a huge breakfast & a much-needed coffee 🙂  Then we turned our attention to what we wanted to do for the day.  We had already planned to hike up to the summit of Mt. Fansipan the next day, so we wanted to visit some of the villages nearby.

After breakfast, we set out for Cat Cat Village, which is 3km from our hotel.  It is a downhill hike to the village, and when you arrive, there is a booth there collecting entrance fees (40,000 VND per person).  There’s a store right across from the ticket booth that sells technical clothing (i.e. North Face, Jack Wolfskin, etc).  The prices at this store are the cheapest compared to other similar stores in Sapa Town (as of Apr 2014).

The village itself was small but pretty.  A bit too much tourism though, and the ladies from the H’mong tribe are pretty persistent in selling their wares.  There’s a small waterfall inside the village, which is a nice place to take a break.  In the same area, you will find a small auditorium where traditional dancing is being performed.

Aside from the beautiful rice terraces, my favourite part is the primary school.  The children are really cute 🙂  We dropped off a little baggy of school supplies with a little girl while we were there.

When you are ready to leave & you don’t want to make the uphill trek back into Sapa Town, there are a lot of motorbikes soliciting tourists for rides.  We chose to walk back & warm our legs up a bit for the next day’s much more challenging climb.  Allot 3-4hrs for visiting Cat Cat.

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Our Hotel:  We stayed at Sapa House, which is very close to Sapa Town.  And we were pleasantly surprised when we found the rooms looked as nice as their website photos.  See my Tripadvisor review here.

Places to Eat in Sapa:  See my next post.

 

Day 2 – Climbing TaPhin Mountain & Motorbiking through TaPhin Village:  Continue reading about our visit to Sapa.  Day 2 is on my Top 3 Experiences in Vietnam list, so check it out 🙂  Continue to Day 2…

Tags: Adventure, Countryside, Hotel, Mountain, Nature, sapa, Vietnam
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