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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 2

June 25, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Today was what I was most excited about while trip-planning – swimming in caves, hiking through jungle & being out in remote countryside – the perfect package 🙂  We woke up early and had a huge breakfast before being picked up by Oxalis.  They took us to their office for payment, tour briefing and getting into our Vietnamese army boots.  Then we were off.

About 1.5 hrs later, we arrived at Tan Hao Village.  Kien (our guide) told us that the dialect in this village is quite different and he can only understand a bit.  What’s very interesting is that there are no written words.  The views by this point were magnificent with incredible 360º views.

We began our trek into the peanut & buffalo fields towards the Rao Nan River.  I am now falling more and more in love with the countryside of Vietnam.  Phong Nha is so beautiful and peaceful.  We crossed the river and walked through corn fields before we got to the tougher portion of our trek.  We scaled large rocks around a mountain and into Hung Ton Valley.  And when we made it around, we had to descend in similar terrain.  The jungle was all around us and it was nice to only be a small group of 6.  We climbed up to the entrance of Hung Ton Cave (one of many caves in the Tulan system).

We learned that limestone is formed from millions of years of fossils being compressed.  The caves in Vietnam have been estimated to be over 400 million years old.  We put on our helmets and headlamps and marched on.  We saw a snail fossil and ‘cave pearls’ (formed by water droplets over a long time).  They looked like perfectly formed and smooth pearls and eggs.  We climbed up and around large formations and finally hit a pool of water, and swam a short distance before we reached To Mo Valley.

It was like walking into a secret, magical place.  A little valley surrounded by jungle and a waterfall.  This was where we stopped for our picnic lunch.  We had a huge spread of BBQ pork, spring rolls, baguettes, & oreos (of course).  We even had freshly made coffee  & tea.  It is a beautiful surprise tucked away between caves.

After lunch, we swam to another cave (Kim Cave).  After a short walk, we reached a 5m drop and got strapped in for the climb down the long wooden ladder.  From there, it was about 2 long swims before we reached the end of the cave.

We climbed up and over more rocks/formations between swims.  As we were swimming, bats were flying very low, zipping right around us.  It was quite an experience.  When we reached the other end of the cave, there was an opening to the jungle outside and it was gorgeous.  We sat there and enjoyed it for a while before retracing our steps/strokes back to To Mo Valley, back through Hung Ton Cave, up the ladder and back out and around the mountain, through the fields and back into the village.

During our walk back, we enjoyed incredible sunset views over the limestone formations.  We also saw buffalo cooling off in their custom made pools (dug out by themselves).  A herd of cattle walked right past us and was amazing to see.  We all gratefully cooled off with huge swigs of cold bia.  On our way back, we drove by “Buffalo City” (little huts built for the buffalo), through Tan Hao Village and back to the Farmstay.  It was almost 8pm before we made it back.  What an unforgettable day!!! 🙂

You can go back to my main page about Son Trach Region to find more details about this area.

p.s. In case you are interested, the tour we took was the “Tulan 1-Day Jungle & Cave Experience”

 

Tags: Adventure, Caves, Countryside, Mountain, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Things to See & Do

June 12, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Hidden amidst the jungle in Central Vietnam is the most stunning limestone region, complete with massive caves & underground streams.  If you are adventure travelers or nature lovers, you will absolutely LOVE this place!  Plan to spend at least 3 days here to get a taste of what the area has to offer.  The realization that you are just a tiny drop in the proverbial ocean really hits you like a ton of bricks here.

You will find this in the Son Trach Commune in Bo Trach District, Quang Binh Province.  Please see my previous post on how to get here.

The sky is the limit in terms of what you can do in this region.  However, please ensure you have a knowledgeable guide/company take you deeper into the jungle and into caves as there are still unexploded ordnance (UXO) throughout Vietnam.

Depending on how much time you have, mix & match some of the options below to create your own itinerary:

Visit to Hang Son Doong, the World’s Largest Cave
Time:  7 Days/6 Nights
Cost:  $3,000 USD (63,300,000 VND) per person

Discovered in 2009, the cave was opened to the public only recently.  Currently, they are only allowing 84 tourists to visit the cave per year.  This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so if you are interested, check for availability as early as you can.  Here is an interesting video on how researchers surveyed Hang Son Doong.  See the itinerary & details on this tour on the Oxalis Adventure Tours website.  For this particular itinerary, they also have 2 UK caving experts who will accompany you on the tour.

Overnight in TuLan Cave or Hang En Cave
Time:  Tour Options available from 2-4 Days/1-3 Nights
Cost:  $225-475 USD (4,700,000-10,000,000 VND) per person

This is a unique opportunity to trek through jungle, swim through caves & sleep under the stars.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stay overnight in the caves, but we bumped into a group on their way out and they had rave reviews.  A few of the trekkers said it was the best sleep they’ve had in a VERY long time!  Check out the Oxalis website for exact itineraries and pricing.  They have options for 1-4 Day Tours for TuLan Cave, and a 2 Day Tour for Hang En Cave.

Visit Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  40,000-1,200,000 VND per person

Join a tour or go it alone, it’s up to you.  If you have limited time, ride in by motorbike and visit Dark Cave.  For Phong Nha Cave, it will take a bit of organizational work to gather enough people to split the cost of the boat.  If you have a full day, you may want to join the Farmstay National Park Tour and all logistics will be taken care of for you.

Day Trip to Paradise Cave
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  120,000-2,650,000 VND per person

Technically, you can see Paradise Cave while visiting the National Park, but you can only access the first 1km without a guide.  If you want to go deeper into the cave, you can join a tour that will take you 3.5 km into the cave, well past the manmade paths and lights.

Mountain Bike through the Countryside
Time:  3-4 Hours
Cost:  Bike Rental (Check with where you are staying to see if they offer free bike rentals.  Farmstay offers bikes for 20,000 VND per hour)

Grab a map of the area and spend the morning or afternoon riding through the countryside.  Relax at the ‘Pub with Cold Beer’, or catch/kill/cook your own chicken with the ‘Chicken Lady’.  You also can’t miss the ‘Wild Boar Farm’.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region, or continue reading to see what we did while we were in Son Trach.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Tour, Vietnam
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Off the Beaten Track in Central Vietnam – Son Trach Commune (Phong Nha Region)

June 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Karsts, Dolines & Caves  …oh my!

With all of these things & more, Bố Trạch district is the perfect combination of beauty, nature & adventure – a haven for backpackers looking to get off the beaten track.

This region only made it onto the tourist map due to recent cave discoveries, with the most famous being Hang Son Doong (officially the largest cave in the world).  Another one of the more known destinations is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.  They can be found in the Bố Trạch district in central Quảng Bình Province.  Bố Trạch district is home to 28 communes and 2 townships, of which the Son Trach commune is a part.  In and around this region, you will find yourself immersed in the miraculous work of nature.  You truly need to experience it to believe it. There are no words to express how I felt while I was there.  I just felt unbelievably grateful that something led me to this place.

This was actually the most difficult part of the trip for us to plan, but also the most rewarding.  There isn’t too much out there in the form of logistical information or details on what you can see and do.  Even my trusty Lonely Planet (11th Edition) failed me this time, and it’s always by my side whenever I travel.  Although, when I got there, I was happy that it wasn’t a highly touristed area, likely because it hasn’t been popularized.  The natural beauty of the region is mostly untouched and you really do feel you are in some sort of Paradise.   Everyone we met while we were there had immense respect for the preservation of the natural environment, and the people and wildlife who inhabit the area.

Anyway, I do hope that you will make a stop here if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.  I wish we could have stayed longer, but could only afford 3 days as our timing was tight…

Since this place has a super special place in my heart, I’m going to spend a couple of posts detailing the area and what we did.

1. Logistics – how to get here & away
2. Accomodations
3. Things to See & Do
4. Our itinerary – what we actually did

Enjoy!  & feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Vietnam
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