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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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Roaming the streets of Quaint Hoi An

July 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Enroute from Central Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City is Hoi An, a quaint historic town with some great stops for the traveling foodie.  Although the architecture has been preserved, its Old Town is now home to nice shops, restaurants and cafés to cater to the large number of tourists that Hoi An attracts.  You’ll find that everything is very walkable, or you can rent cruiser bikes to take you around (check with your hotel to see if they offer use of their bicycles for free). We stayed in Hoi An for 2 days and I think that is more than sufficient, unless you are looking to order custom tailored clothing. DSC08016 DSC08127

 

Where we stayed: Vaia Boutique Hotel – We enjoyed our stay here for 3 nights, which included daily breakfast.  The room was comfortable and had air conditioning, which was really nice.  The hotel offers free use of their cruiser bikes.  Cleanliness wasn’t excellent.  Location is decent.  Although it’s not located in the centre of town, the hotel is only a short work into Old Town (approximately 10 min).

 

Things to Do:

Take a Cooking Class – We joined a cooking class with Green Bamboo.  I have a separate post on this as it is pretty long and heavy on the photos.  We were a class of 11 people, which meant we had the opportunity to sample a wide range of dishes.  Highly recommended!

 

Stroll Along the Beach – Our hotel offered bicycles for free, so we took them out to Cua Dai Beach, which was about 4 km (15-20 min).  We were stopped & asked to park our bikes in a lot (paid 10,000 VND), which is odd because we later saw other people with bikes riding around closer to the beach. I had read some reviews about the beach being touristy, but I didn’t really feel that way.  We walked further along the beach, and soon we were pretty much alone.  The sand is nice and soft, perfect for building sand castles.  🙂  Taking a break from all that hard work, you can relax on some lounge chairs and sip on some cold drinks.  I was surprised to see that the prices here were considerably cheaper than ordering drinks in Old Town.  Most of the lounge chairs are operated by independent local shops, although some are run by larger resorts.  Being huge advocates for supporting local businesses, we opted for a small shop.

 

DSC08064 DSC08102 Indulge in the Wonderful Flavours of Vietnamese Food – We did a LOT of eating while we were in Hoi An – sampling the cafés, restaurants and street food.  See my post on eating in Hoi An.

 

Go Shopping – There are many cute little shops with unique souvenirs.  Just wander around Old Town and you’ll be sure to stumble on some interesting finds.  One store that is worth noting is the Reaching Out Arts & Crafts shop.  They are a fair trade gift shop that showcases the creations of artisans with disabilities.  They have a beautiful storefront and an open workshop in the back.

 

Custom Tailoring – Hoi An is also well known for its high quality custom tailoring.  This includes suits, dresses, leather handbags and shoes.  In order to ensure that everything is just right, you should allot at least 3 days in Hoi An.  Your first visit will be to select your style, materials, and to get measured.  Your second visit back will be to try on the finished product and have the seamstress mark down any adjustments that need to be made.  And your final visit will be for a final fitting and to take home your new custom clothes.  There are many merchants to choose from in and around Old Town. I didn’t expect to order anything custom-made, but I couldn’t help myself.  It was our last day in Hoi An and I was casually perusing a leather goods store, when the owner told me that they can definitely complete a pair of leather ankle boots for me by early evening (i.e. in 4 hrs!).  I was a bit hesitant, but proceeded to have my feet measured while selecting the leather sample I wanted.  We went back to pick up my boots about 4.5 hours later, and they were ready.  They fit like a glove and I loved them!  However, upon further examination a few weeks later, I noticed that they weren’t perfect.  I guess I anticipated it since they were made with such short notice.  Oh well, I love them anyways 🙂

You can find a pretty good map of Old Town here.

To see where we ate in Hoi An, see my next post.

Tags: beach, Biking, Cafe, Food, hoi an, Restaurant, Vietnam
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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 1

June 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

On my last post, I highlighted a few recommended activities while you’re in Son Trach Commune in Central Vietnam.  In this post, I wanted to give you our 3-day itinerary while we were here.  However, if you can stay longer, I really recommend it because there’s so much to do here.

Day 1 – Mountain Biking 

We rented bikes at Phong Nha Farmstay and rode to the Wild Boar Farm, stopping frequently to take photos of the amazing scenery.  The path itself is mostly dirt road, with quite a few bumps and ruts.  It is relatively flat as you ride through the rice fields, and then you will find short, steep spurts as you move further along.  Since this is a multi-use pathway, it is shared by people, motorbikes, chickens, dogs, cows and large buffalo.

Speaking of buffalo…  We were riding along happily when we encountered a herd of about a dozen buffalo coming towards us.  The path was narrow, with vegetation on either side of us.  Quickly assessing our options, there really wasn’t much choice – so we dismounted and stood as far to the left of the path as possible.  Self-preservation was on the top of my mind when I figured that placing my little mountain bike between myself and the oncoming herd was a fantastic idea.  It was like a slow-motion reel at this point as I watched them pass Kevin & meander towards me.  I was so frozen in fear I completely forgot I had the camera & could have captured this amazing moment.  The buffalo stared at me and I stared back…  And in about 4 or 5 min, it was all over.  I breathed out a sigh of relief, and got on my bike again.  This is when I realized the beauty of the countryside.  The wildlife here really don’t care much about me, and we can totally co-exist in peace.  🙂

As you can see in the map below, there is an option to cross a stream, or take an easier & more direct path.  To add spice to our day, we chose to cross the stream.  🙂   When we got there, out of nowhere, a large dump truck decided to cross as well.  We waited our turn & made it across, passed the Pub with Cold Beer and continued making our way to the Wild Boar Farm.

 

We were greeted by the owner (Cuong), who led us to a nice lookout area where we ordered 3 cokes and some freshly roasted peanuts.  We were exhausted, hungry and dehydrated.  This is a great place to cool down from your ride and relax a bit.  We had a chance to lay back and really enjoy the fact that we were in the middle of  the countryside in Vietnam.  Everything just slows down – you forget all the things that stressed you out before you got here, and you can appreciate a simpler life.

When we were ready for our ride back, Cuong motioned us over to the wild boars.  He uprooted a small tree to reveal some sort of root vegetable at the roots (looked kind of like sweet potatoes?).  This is what we used to feed the boars.  And before we left, Kevin got to pet the head of the resident buffalo.  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

It is a very scenic & adventurous (for a novice biker) ride, so definitely worth spending a leisurely morning or afternoon out on your bike.  I took a photo of the map we used & our route is highlighted in aqua.  The entire ride roundtrip (with breaks) took about 4 hours.

DSC07430_2

To continue reading, see Part 2 of our Itinerary.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Things to See & Do

June 12, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Hidden amidst the jungle in Central Vietnam is the most stunning limestone region, complete with massive caves & underground streams.  If you are adventure travelers or nature lovers, you will absolutely LOVE this place!  Plan to spend at least 3 days here to get a taste of what the area has to offer.  The realization that you are just a tiny drop in the proverbial ocean really hits you like a ton of bricks here.

You will find this in the Son Trach Commune in Bo Trach District, Quang Binh Province.  Please see my previous post on how to get here.

The sky is the limit in terms of what you can do in this region.  However, please ensure you have a knowledgeable guide/company take you deeper into the jungle and into caves as there are still unexploded ordnance (UXO) throughout Vietnam.

Depending on how much time you have, mix & match some of the options below to create your own itinerary:

Visit to Hang Son Doong, the World’s Largest Cave
Time:  7 Days/6 Nights
Cost:  $3,000 USD (63,300,000 VND) per person

Discovered in 2009, the cave was opened to the public only recently.  Currently, they are only allowing 84 tourists to visit the cave per year.  This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so if you are interested, check for availability as early as you can.  Here is an interesting video on how researchers surveyed Hang Son Doong.  See the itinerary & details on this tour on the Oxalis Adventure Tours website.  For this particular itinerary, they also have 2 UK caving experts who will accompany you on the tour.

Overnight in TuLan Cave or Hang En Cave
Time:  Tour Options available from 2-4 Days/1-3 Nights
Cost:  $225-475 USD (4,700,000-10,000,000 VND) per person

This is a unique opportunity to trek through jungle, swim through caves & sleep under the stars.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stay overnight in the caves, but we bumped into a group on their way out and they had rave reviews.  A few of the trekkers said it was the best sleep they’ve had in a VERY long time!  Check out the Oxalis website for exact itineraries and pricing.  They have options for 1-4 Day Tours for TuLan Cave, and a 2 Day Tour for Hang En Cave.

Visit Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  40,000-1,200,000 VND per person

Join a tour or go it alone, it’s up to you.  If you have limited time, ride in by motorbike and visit Dark Cave.  For Phong Nha Cave, it will take a bit of organizational work to gather enough people to split the cost of the boat.  If you have a full day, you may want to join the Farmstay National Park Tour and all logistics will be taken care of for you.

Day Trip to Paradise Cave
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  120,000-2,650,000 VND per person

Technically, you can see Paradise Cave while visiting the National Park, but you can only access the first 1km without a guide.  If you want to go deeper into the cave, you can join a tour that will take you 3.5 km into the cave, well past the manmade paths and lights.

Mountain Bike through the Countryside
Time:  3-4 Hours
Cost:  Bike Rental (Check with where you are staying to see if they offer free bike rentals.  Farmstay offers bikes for 20,000 VND per hour)

Grab a map of the area and spend the morning or afternoon riding through the countryside.  Relax at the ‘Pub with Cold Beer’, or catch/kill/cook your own chicken with the ‘Chicken Lady’.  You also can’t miss the ‘Wild Boar Farm’.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region, or continue reading to see what we did while we were in Son Trach.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Tour, Vietnam
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Off the Beaten Track in Central Vietnam – Son Trach Commune (Phong Nha Region)

June 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Karsts, Dolines & Caves  …oh my!

With all of these things & more, Bố Trạch district is the perfect combination of beauty, nature & adventure – a haven for backpackers looking to get off the beaten track.

This region only made it onto the tourist map due to recent cave discoveries, with the most famous being Hang Son Doong (officially the largest cave in the world).  Another one of the more known destinations is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.  They can be found in the Bố Trạch district in central Quảng Bình Province.  Bố Trạch district is home to 28 communes and 2 townships, of which the Son Trach commune is a part.  In and around this region, you will find yourself immersed in the miraculous work of nature.  You truly need to experience it to believe it. There are no words to express how I felt while I was there.  I just felt unbelievably grateful that something led me to this place.

This was actually the most difficult part of the trip for us to plan, but also the most rewarding.  There isn’t too much out there in the form of logistical information or details on what you can see and do.  Even my trusty Lonely Planet (11th Edition) failed me this time, and it’s always by my side whenever I travel.  Although, when I got there, I was happy that it wasn’t a highly touristed area, likely because it hasn’t been popularized.  The natural beauty of the region is mostly untouched and you really do feel you are in some sort of Paradise.   Everyone we met while we were there had immense respect for the preservation of the natural environment, and the people and wildlife who inhabit the area.

Anyway, I do hope that you will make a stop here if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.  I wish we could have stayed longer, but could only afford 3 days as our timing was tight…

Since this place has a super special place in my heart, I’m going to spend a couple of posts detailing the area and what we did.

1. Logistics – how to get here & away
2. Accomodations
3. Things to See & Do
4. Our itinerary – what we actually did

Enjoy!  & feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Vietnam
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