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Our 3-Day Itinerary in Son Trach (Phong Nha) – Part 1

June 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

On my last post, I highlighted a few recommended activities while you’re in Son Trach Commune in Central Vietnam.  In this post, I wanted to give you our 3-day itinerary while we were here.  However, if you can stay longer, I really recommend it because there’s so much to do here.

Day 1 – Mountain Biking 

We rented bikes at Phong Nha Farmstay and rode to the Wild Boar Farm, stopping frequently to take photos of the amazing scenery.  The path itself is mostly dirt road, with quite a few bumps and ruts.  It is relatively flat as you ride through the rice fields, and then you will find short, steep spurts as you move further along.  Since this is a multi-use pathway, it is shared by people, motorbikes, chickens, dogs, cows and large buffalo.

Speaking of buffalo…  We were riding along happily when we encountered a herd of about a dozen buffalo coming towards us.  The path was narrow, with vegetation on either side of us.  Quickly assessing our options, there really wasn’t much choice – so we dismounted and stood as far to the left of the path as possible.  Self-preservation was on the top of my mind when I figured that placing my little mountain bike between myself and the oncoming herd was a fantastic idea.  It was like a slow-motion reel at this point as I watched them pass Kevin & meander towards me.  I was so frozen in fear I completely forgot I had the camera & could have captured this amazing moment.  The buffalo stared at me and I stared back…  And in about 4 or 5 min, it was all over.  I breathed out a sigh of relief, and got on my bike again.  This is when I realized the beauty of the countryside.  The wildlife here really don’t care much about me, and we can totally co-exist in peace.  🙂

As you can see in the map below, there is an option to cross a stream, or take an easier & more direct path.  To add spice to our day, we chose to cross the stream.  🙂   When we got there, out of nowhere, a large dump truck decided to cross as well.  We waited our turn & made it across, passed the Pub with Cold Beer and continued making our way to the Wild Boar Farm.

 

We were greeted by the owner (Cuong), who led us to a nice lookout area where we ordered 3 cokes and some freshly roasted peanuts.  We were exhausted, hungry and dehydrated.  This is a great place to cool down from your ride and relax a bit.  We had a chance to lay back and really enjoy the fact that we were in the middle of  the countryside in Vietnam.  Everything just slows down – you forget all the things that stressed you out before you got here, and you can appreciate a simpler life.

When we were ready for our ride back, Cuong motioned us over to the wild boars.  He uprooted a small tree to reveal some sort of root vegetable at the roots (looked kind of like sweet potatoes?).  This is what we used to feed the boars.  And before we left, Kevin got to pet the head of the resident buffalo.  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

It is a very scenic & adventurous (for a novice biker) ride, so definitely worth spending a leisurely morning or afternoon out on your bike.  I took a photo of the map we used & our route is highlighted in aqua.  The entire ride roundtrip (with breaks) took about 4 hours.

DSC07430_2

To continue reading, see Part 2 of our Itinerary.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Things to See & Do

June 12, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Hidden amidst the jungle in Central Vietnam is the most stunning limestone region, complete with massive caves & underground streams.  If you are adventure travelers or nature lovers, you will absolutely LOVE this place!  Plan to spend at least 3 days here to get a taste of what the area has to offer.  The realization that you are just a tiny drop in the proverbial ocean really hits you like a ton of bricks here.

You will find this in the Son Trach Commune in Bo Trach District, Quang Binh Province.  Please see my previous post on how to get here.

The sky is the limit in terms of what you can do in this region.  However, please ensure you have a knowledgeable guide/company take you deeper into the jungle and into caves as there are still unexploded ordnance (UXO) throughout Vietnam.

Depending on how much time you have, mix & match some of the options below to create your own itinerary:

Visit to Hang Son Doong, the World’s Largest Cave
Time:  7 Days/6 Nights
Cost:  $3,000 USD (63,300,000 VND) per person

Discovered in 2009, the cave was opened to the public only recently.  Currently, they are only allowing 84 tourists to visit the cave per year.  This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so if you are interested, check for availability as early as you can.  Here is an interesting video on how researchers surveyed Hang Son Doong.  See the itinerary & details on this tour on the Oxalis Adventure Tours website.  For this particular itinerary, they also have 2 UK caving experts who will accompany you on the tour.

Overnight in TuLan Cave or Hang En Cave
Time:  Tour Options available from 2-4 Days/1-3 Nights
Cost:  $225-475 USD (4,700,000-10,000,000 VND) per person

This is a unique opportunity to trek through jungle, swim through caves & sleep under the stars.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stay overnight in the caves, but we bumped into a group on their way out and they had rave reviews.  A few of the trekkers said it was the best sleep they’ve had in a VERY long time!  Check out the Oxalis website for exact itineraries and pricing.  They have options for 1-4 Day Tours for TuLan Cave, and a 2 Day Tour for Hang En Cave.

Visit Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  40,000-1,200,000 VND per person

Join a tour or go it alone, it’s up to you.  If you have limited time, ride in by motorbike and visit Dark Cave.  For Phong Nha Cave, it will take a bit of organizational work to gather enough people to split the cost of the boat.  If you have a full day, you may want to join the Farmstay National Park Tour and all logistics will be taken care of for you.

Day Trip to Paradise Cave
Time:  0.5-1 Day
Cost:  120,000-2,650,000 VND per person

Technically, you can see Paradise Cave while visiting the National Park, but you can only access the first 1km without a guide.  If you want to go deeper into the cave, you can join a tour that will take you 3.5 km into the cave, well past the manmade paths and lights.

Mountain Bike through the Countryside
Time:  3-4 Hours
Cost:  Bike Rental (Check with where you are staying to see if they offer free bike rentals.  Farmstay offers bikes for 20,000 VND per hour)

Grab a map of the area and spend the morning or afternoon riding through the countryside.  Relax at the ‘Pub with Cold Beer’, or catch/kill/cook your own chicken with the ‘Chicken Lady’.  You also can’t miss the ‘Wild Boar Farm’.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region, or continue reading to see what we did while we were in Son Trach.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Tour, Vietnam
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Where to Stay in Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Central Vietnam

June 10, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

The area is still developing and there isn’t too much information regarding accomodations.  A lot of the local hotels are not online so it may be easiest to try to contact those who are and ask for some recommendations if they don’t have vacancy.  Accomodations are generally basic, but clean and comfortable.  It is the authentic countryside we are looking for here, so there aren’t any 4- or 5-star hotels/resorts.

We stayed at Phong Nha Farmstay, which we absolutely loved!  I’ve posted some info below, as well as other options that are available.

Phong Nha Farmstay (Tel: 052 367 5135; Email: phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com) – Located 8km from Phong Nha town & 40 min from Dong Hoi Train Station, you’ll find a beautiful retreat nestled between the rice fields.  Cost is $35/night for a double bed and private washroom (food not included).  The owners, Ben & Bich, as well as the great front desk team, are a wealth of information.  They gave us great suggestions on what we can do for the days we didn’t have a tour booked.  And they were very helpful in answering our questions prior to our arrival, and assisting with advance tour bookings.

Another great thing about Farmstay is their food!  Before and after our very active days, we loaded up on items from their extensive menu & from their daily specials board.  Check out their rooftop in the evening and enjoy the sunset with a drink (bring your camera).  They’ve got a cool contraption that transports ice cold beer directly to you 🙂

 

Easy Tiger Hostel (Tel: 052 367 7844, Email: easytigerphongnha@gmail.com) – Located on the main strip in town, you will find that the hostel provides all the basic essentials, has air conditioning (which is very important), wifi & can easily assist you with arranging transport or tours.  They have a patio in front for you to enjoy some food and drinks.  Cost is $8/night, including breakfast.

 

Hotels Along Main Street – There are a number of options around Easy Tiger Hostel, in the centre of town.  You can find options for private rooms here as well.

 

Pepperhouse Homestay (Tel: 0167  873 1560, Email: info@pepperhouse-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Diem.  $10/night for a dorm bed, including breakfast.

 

Ho Khanh’s Homestay (Tel: 91 679 4506, Email: info@phong-nha-homestay.com) – Vietnamese Homestay owned by Ho Khanh and his wife.  Ho Khanh is a local farmer and is also the man who discovered Hang Son Doong, the largest cave in the world.  Bicycles and wifi are free for guests.  Double rooms are 600,000 VND/night.

Go back to my main page about Son Trach Region.

Tags: Accomodations, Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Son Trach (Phong Nha) Region – Getting there & away

June 6, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Since tourism to the Phong Nha Region in Central Vietnam is still in its early stages of development, you will find that it requires a bit more planning to get here.  I’ve listed some options in order of lowest to highest cost, and also my thoughts on each.  Let me know if you have any questions/comments to add.

 

Motorbike – So, if you’re up for a real adventure, this is the way to go.  We’ve put this on our ‘To Do’ list for the next time we’re back in Vietnam.  If you’re interested, I found a good blog post with details on how to motorbike Vietnam on the Ho Chi Minh Highway.  Just a note of caution…  We met a few people along the way who were motorbiking across the country, and you’ll need to do some pre-planning with regards to where you will stop to rest for the night.  Because you’ll be visiting rural areas that are undeveloped, you may be turned away as a foreigner.  Also, read up on scams as there are some popular ones being used, at least in the cities.  You can email me for more details.

 

Bus –

(a) Local Bus – Local buses are cheapest, but are not very nice.  The Dong Hoi bus station is located at 150 Tran Hung Dao (at the intersection of Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Huu Canh).  Currently, a bus ride between Hue and Son Trach costs 150,000 VND.  You can ask the driver to drop you off at or near your destination.  Just ensure you have it written in Vietnamese.
*Note: Ensure you buy your bus tickets from the ticket office/counter.  If not, you will likely be asked to pay a much higher fee by the driver.  And while you’re being swindled, you’ll likely get yelled at as well.  If you’re uncomfortable, back out and get off the bus.

(b) Minibus between Phong Nha & Hue with Tour – There is a daily bus traveling door-to-door between Hue Backpackers Hostel and Phong Nha Farmstay, which costs 500,000 VND.  This bus passes through the DMZ and makes stops at the Vinh Moc Tunnels & Ben Hai River Museum.  This ride takes 5.5 hours and currently departs Phong Nha Farmstay at 7 AM.

(c) Bus Companies – If you choose this option, please carefully read reviews on whoever you decide on.  There are many companies and it’s not necessarily cheaper.  Here are a few that are popular:  Sinh Cafe Open Tour, Mai Linh, and Boomerang Bus.  At the time of research, there were no terrible reviews against these companies.  There are just a lot of stories about tourists being scammed so I would recommend that you avoid this option if possible.  The trains are just a bit pricier, but at least you know what you’ll be getting.

 

Train – I think this is the best option whether you are coming from the North or South.  Train travel is reliable, but timing may be off depending on whether or not there are delays.  We departed Hanoi on time and arrived 1 hour late in Dong Hoi.  Our 2 soft sleeper tickets from Hanoi to Dong Hoi cost us 1,680,000 VND.  Depending on your budget, you can choose from hard/soft seats and hard/soft sleepers.  The only difference between a hard and soft sleeper is a 2″ mattress pad.  When you arrive at Dong Hoi Train Station, you can hire a taxi to take you into town, or pre-arrange something with whoever you are staying with.  It is about 50km to Son Trach Village (close to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park), and 35km to Phong Nha Farmstay.

 

Air – If you are traveling direct to central Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City (SGN) or Hanoi (HAN), it would be most time-efficient if you flew directly into Dong Hoi (VDH) Airport.  For example, it is only 1 hour 40 min to fly from Hanoi to Dong Hoi.  Currently, Vietnam Airlines operates flights to/from Dong Hoi daily.  And if your timing is right, you can find tickets comparable to soft sleeper train prices.  The airport itself is located 6km north of Dong Hoi.  You can take a taxi into town from here or pre-arrange a pick-up.

Now that you are here, read about what you can do.

Tags: Adventure, Countryside, Nature, Vietnam
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Off the Beaten Track in Central Vietnam – Son Trach Commune (Phong Nha Region)

June 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Karsts, Dolines & Caves  …oh my!

With all of these things & more, Bố Trạch district is the perfect combination of beauty, nature & adventure – a haven for backpackers looking to get off the beaten track.

This region only made it onto the tourist map due to recent cave discoveries, with the most famous being Hang Son Doong (officially the largest cave in the world).  Another one of the more known destinations is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.  They can be found in the Bố Trạch district in central Quảng Bình Province.  Bố Trạch district is home to 28 communes and 2 townships, of which the Son Trach commune is a part.  In and around this region, you will find yourself immersed in the miraculous work of nature.  You truly need to experience it to believe it. There are no words to express how I felt while I was there.  I just felt unbelievably grateful that something led me to this place.

This was actually the most difficult part of the trip for us to plan, but also the most rewarding.  There isn’t too much out there in the form of logistical information or details on what you can see and do.  Even my trusty Lonely Planet (11th Edition) failed me this time, and it’s always by my side whenever I travel.  Although, when I got there, I was happy that it wasn’t a highly touristed area, likely because it hasn’t been popularized.  The natural beauty of the region is mostly untouched and you really do feel you are in some sort of Paradise.   Everyone we met while we were there had immense respect for the preservation of the natural environment, and the people and wildlife who inhabit the area.

Anyway, I do hope that you will make a stop here if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.  I wish we could have stayed longer, but could only afford 3 days as our timing was tight…

Since this place has a super special place in my heart, I’m going to spend a couple of posts detailing the area and what we did.

1. Logistics – how to get here & away
2. Accomodations
3. Things to See & Do
4. Our itinerary – what we actually did

Enjoy!  & feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Tags: Adventure, Biking, Caves, Countryside, Vietnam
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One Beautiful Night in Halong Bay

May 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Kevin & I are generally low-budget travelers, but since we were meeting my sister & her husband to go to Halong Bay together, we decided to splurge (a lot).  We joined Huong Hai Sealife Cruise’s 2 Day/1 Night cruise & loved it!  You can find details of the full itinerary on their website.  They also offer a 2 Night/3 Day cruise, but I felt that the 1 night was enough for us.

Note: If you fear motion sickness, you shouldn’t worry too much as the boat is relatively still since you are in the bay (Bai Tu Long Bay) & still quite close to shore.  I generally get motion sickness very easily, and I did experience some discomfort, but did not have to resort to taking meds (just don’t look out the window while you’re eating).  You should still carry some Gravol with you, just in case.

Here’s a quick review & summary of our activities:

Rooms – 5-star (in my opinion).  Their rooms look exactly as they do in the company’s photos; the beds are comfy & the washroom facilities are clean.  Each of our cabins had a little balcony as well, which is a nice touch.

Food – Excellent.  Lunch & Breakfast were served buffet style, but the selection was very good and they will accomodate any dietary restrictions or allergies you may have.  Our ‘gala dinner’ was very nice.  We got to dress up a bit & enjoy some entertainment as well as a nice sit-down dinner.  We had a 4-course meal, all of which was very tasty.

Cooking Demonstation – This was really fun and interactive.  Our cruise manager was pretty funny!  This transitioned nicely into their happy hour where you can buy drinks at a reduced rate.

Day 1 Excursions – We visited Hang Sung Sot (Surprise Cave) and wandered leisurely around as our guide pointed out interesting shapes formed by the limestone.  The cave is nicely lit up and there is a defined path constructed for the large groups of tourists who file through every day.  We were transported back to the boat for a brief 15 min break, and we were off again to Ti Top Island.

You have the opportunity to walk up to the summit and/or enjoy the beach.  I believe it was about 20 min to make it to the top, where you’ll have panoramic views of Halong Bay and all its beautiful islets.  As we were walking back down to the beach, the sun was just starting to set, and it was really beautiful.  🙂
We had only 15-20 min to play on the beach.  The sand is soft, so kick off your shoes and enjoy.

Day 2 Excursion – We woke up, had a light breakfast and climbed into our kayaks.  We paddled around the bay for about 45min, getting pretty close to some monkeys and to the limestone structures.

Added Options, which we had included in our package:

2-Way Transfer between Hanoi & Halong City – It is a 4 hour ride each way, although our return trip was over 4.5 hours because our driver was going at a snail’s pace.  There is 1 rest stop, which also includes 20min of mandatory shopping time.  You can make your own way to Halong City by taking the regular buses leaving Hanoi, but keep in mind that your cruise may not wait for you if you arrive late.  We were actually late on arrival due to road construction and the cruise manager was waiting to escort us directly to the boat.

 Kayaking – If you have the opportunity and the energy, this is a great option to add to your package!

Tags: Cruise, Halong Bay, Tour, Vietnam
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Restaurants in Sapa Town

May 16, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Vietnamese cuisine is all about the aromatic herbs and subtle flavours; using fresh ingredients to create quiet masterpieces on a plate.  Since Sapa was our first stop in Vietnam, I was really excited to try all the traditional dishes.  Here are the restaurants we were able to sample while we were in Sapa:

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Panorama (39 Fanxipang Street):  The restaurant is located upstairs, and they also have a cooking school.  We each ordered our own Pho Gai & shared veggies, rice, papaya salad & fresh juices.  Everything was very good, but what stood out was the papaya salad.  & of course, the pineapple juice!

 

Relaxing @ Baguette & Chocolat

Baguette & Chocolat (Thac Bac Street): Great little café/restaurant with a very nice outdoor seating area.  We enjoyed some downtime here to catch up on some reading and writing.  They have an extensive menu of food, snacks & pastries, all for a good cause.  It is a not-for-profit business that is aimed at providing training for disadvantaged youth so that they have the skills to work in the hospitality industry.

 

My fave vegetable spring rolls @ Red Camelia

Red Camelia (30 Pho Cau May):  Our first dinner was at this bustling, candlelit restaurant.  When we arrived, they were already quite busy, so we figured the food must be good here – & it was!  To accompany our beer, we ordered fresh vegetable spring rolls with peanuts & mint (my favourite!), veggies with rice, and lemongrass sesame chicken on a hot plate with fries.  & although we were already stuffed, we got another order of the vegetable spring rolls because I liked them so much.  🙂  The only issue was that they decided to give us the same bowl of fish sauce for dipping when they came back with our second order (oh well).

 

Grilled Fish @ Little Sapa

Little Sapa (18 Pho Cau May):  We had another very tasty dinner here, with fresh beef spring rolls, fried choko with garlic, veggies, grilled lemongrass ginger fish on a hot plate, and a bowl of mixed fruits for dessert.  The restaurant is really busy and all the tables were consistently full.

 

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion (27 Pho Cau May):  This restaurant is busy throughout the day, with people sitting on their pretty patio for a drink between meals.  The food is excellent.  They even pack your dinner to go for those who are taking the overnight train back to Hanoi.

Tags: Food, Restaurant, sapa, Vietnam
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Coffee Shops & Afternoon Tea in Hong Kong

May 14, 2014 in Asia, China, Destinations

When my family & I are in HK, we find ourselves stopping for coffee and dessert every chance we get.  Every time we travel to HK, there’s bound to be a new list of coffee shops and restaurants to try out.  Here’s a list of cafés we tried during the 4 days I was there:

Coffee Academics :  My family & I met up for an afternoon snack at this trendy café (38 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, 852.2156.0313), which is run by the same group as Caffé Habitu.  We were in desperate need of some good coffee.  With high ceilings and exposed brick, the place had a very urban loft feel, so I was excited.  Unfortunately, the drinks did not impress & the service was even worse.  The servers were extremely slow and couldn’t keep any of the orders straight.  It’s a shame because the place itself looked very trendy and I really wanted to like it.

Café Gray :  Very swanky place & the ideal spot for a fancy night out (8 Queensway, Level 49, The Upper House).  Great view of HK skyline, yummy drinks, and quiet enough to enjoy great conversation. 

Flat White @ Cafe Corridor

Café Corridor :  Literally down a corridor, this little café has a cozy hipster vibe.  My family & I enjoyed their breakfast & coffees.  It is a nice place for a break in the hectic Times Square area (26A Russell St, Causeway Bay).  Their flat white was pretty good, and so were the sandwiches and full breakfasts that we ordered.  If I had more time, I would have gone back to curl up with a good book.

 

 

Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon :  Nice place to rest up after some serious shopping at IFC.  They serve high tea sets and other snacks/food, along with a long list of drinks.  I ordered their chocolate croissant and it didn’t quite live up to Paris standards.  Despite that, it’s still a good choice for afternoon tea.

Pomme : Saving the best for last (11-13 Luard Road, Wan Chai, 852.2527.9933) 😉  In full disclosure, the owner/head pastry chef, Tracy Chow, is also my cousin.  However, don’t let that discount the fact that she is a very talented pastry chef.  Having received her diploma from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, she also trained in France and Japan before she opened up her own french-inspired café in Wan Chai.  And ever since then, my family and I have spent most of our afternoons in HK trying everything on the menu.  My personal favourites are the chestnut cake & the hazelnut chocolate tart.  This is a great little place to catch up with an old friend, or to just catch up on some reading.

Latte & Hazelnut Chocolate Tart @ Pomme

Latte & Hazelnut Chocolate Tart @ Pomme

Special Easter Cupcake @  Pomme

Special Easter Cupcake @ Pomme

 

Tags: Cafe, Cake, coffee, Hong Kong, Pastry, Tea
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Amazing Flight Deal – YYZ to HKG

May 9, 2014 in Asia, Deals, Destinations, Trip Planner

Check out this deal for a flight from Toronto to Hong Kong for under $800 CAD!  I went online to check the flights & it’s really available! 
The only caveat is that there are 2 stops (i.e. 3 flights) & your one-way flight will take over 22hrs.  As long as you don’t mind that, it’s an amazing deal 🙂 

Kevin & I just came back from a similar flight from YYZ to BKK & although it’s exhausting, it was worth it.

Tags: budget, deals, flight
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Restaurants in Hanoi – Where to find Authentic Vietnamese Specialties

May 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

DSC07336DSC07335

Quan An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau) – The concept behind this super-popular restaurant chain in Vietnam is very interesting.  Serving up traditional home-cooked dishes and Vietnamese “street food”, this restaurant offers an extensive menu of small eats and main dishes.  My favourite was the Banh Xeo (above right).  The egg is so thin and crispy!  Servers here will teach you how to put your dish together, so ask them if you’re unsure.

This restaurant is a must try in Hanoi!  Being only about 8 min (by foot) from Hanoi train station, it’s a great stop before your overnight train ride.

 

DSC06969

Cha Ca

Cha Ca Thang Long (21-31 Duong Thanh) – This restaurant serves only 1 dish, Cha Ca, which is a Hanoi specialty. Making this dish requires cooking the fish twice. First, chunks of fish fillet are seasoned and grilled in banana leaves. Then the fish is sautéed in a pan with lots of dill, spring onion, chives, mint, and coriander. Once ready to eat, it is served with cold rice noodle, roasted peanuts and shrimp paste/fish sauce. The result is a very tender & fragrant fish. Your server will come by and show you how to put it all together. This was a tasty & fun experience 🙂

 

Our spread 🙂



Bun Cha Nem Cua be Dac Kim (67 Duong Thanh) – We each had an order of Bun Cha (60,000 VND) with a spring roll (15,000 VND). This tiny little shop offers a small menu, but everything is super tasty!

 

 

 

Pho Gia Truyen (49 Bat Dan) – Best Pho we had on our entire trip in Vietnam! The soup base was very clear and flavourful – perfection in a bowl. There are long lineups and you’ll need to squeeze in wherever you can find a stool at the table, but it’s worth the wait.


 

Tags: Food, hanoi, Vietnam
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