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Me & My Backpack

Me & My Backpack

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One Beautiful Night in Halong Bay

May 23, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Kevin & I are generally low-budget travelers, but since we were meeting my sister & her husband to go to Halong Bay together, we decided to splurge (a lot).  We joined Huong Hai Sealife Cruise’s 2 Day/1 Night cruise & loved it!  You can find details of the full itinerary on their website.  They also offer a 2 Night/3 Day cruise, but I felt that the 1 night was enough for us.

Note: If you fear motion sickness, you shouldn’t worry too much as the boat is relatively still since you are in the bay (Bai Tu Long Bay) & still quite close to shore.  I generally get motion sickness very easily, and I did experience some discomfort, but did not have to resort to taking meds (just don’t look out the window while you’re eating).  You should still carry some Gravol with you, just in case.

Here’s a quick review & summary of our activities:

Rooms – 5-star (in my opinion).  Their rooms look exactly as they do in the company’s photos; the beds are comfy & the washroom facilities are clean.  Each of our cabins had a little balcony as well, which is a nice touch.

Food – Excellent.  Lunch & Breakfast were served buffet style, but the selection was very good and they will accomodate any dietary restrictions or allergies you may have.  Our ‘gala dinner’ was very nice.  We got to dress up a bit & enjoy some entertainment as well as a nice sit-down dinner.  We had a 4-course meal, all of which was very tasty.

Cooking Demonstation – This was really fun and interactive.  Our cruise manager was pretty funny!  This transitioned nicely into their happy hour where you can buy drinks at a reduced rate.

Day 1 Excursions – We visited Hang Sung Sot (Surprise Cave) and wandered leisurely around as our guide pointed out interesting shapes formed by the limestone.  The cave is nicely lit up and there is a defined path constructed for the large groups of tourists who file through every day.  We were transported back to the boat for a brief 15 min break, and we were off again to Ti Top Island.

You have the opportunity to walk up to the summit and/or enjoy the beach.  I believe it was about 20 min to make it to the top, where you’ll have panoramic views of Halong Bay and all its beautiful islets.  As we were walking back down to the beach, the sun was just starting to set, and it was really beautiful.  🙂
We had only 15-20 min to play on the beach.  The sand is soft, so kick off your shoes and enjoy.

Day 2 Excursion – We woke up, had a light breakfast and climbed into our kayaks.  We paddled around the bay for about 45min, getting pretty close to some monkeys and to the limestone structures.

Added Options, which we had included in our package:

2-Way Transfer between Hanoi & Halong City – It is a 4 hour ride each way, although our return trip was over 4.5 hours because our driver was going at a snail’s pace.  There is 1 rest stop, which also includes 20min of mandatory shopping time.  You can make your own way to Halong City by taking the regular buses leaving Hanoi, but keep in mind that your cruise may not wait for you if you arrive late.  We were actually late on arrival due to road construction and the cruise manager was waiting to escort us directly to the boat.

 Kayaking – If you have the opportunity and the energy, this is a great option to add to your package!

Tags: Cruise, Halong Bay, Tour, Vietnam
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Restaurants in Sapa Town

May 16, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Vietnamese cuisine is all about the aromatic herbs and subtle flavours; using fresh ingredients to create quiet masterpieces on a plate.  Since Sapa was our first stop in Vietnam, I was really excited to try all the traditional dishes.  Here are the restaurants we were able to sample while we were in Sapa:

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Papaya Salad @ Panorama

Panorama (39 Fanxipang Street):  The restaurant is located upstairs, and they also have a cooking school.  We each ordered our own Pho Gai & shared veggies, rice, papaya salad & fresh juices.  Everything was very good, but what stood out was the papaya salad.  & of course, the pineapple juice!

 

Relaxing @ Baguette & Chocolat

Baguette & Chocolat (Thac Bac Street): Great little café/restaurant with a very nice outdoor seating area.  We enjoyed some downtime here to catch up on some reading and writing.  They have an extensive menu of food, snacks & pastries, all for a good cause.  It is a not-for-profit business that is aimed at providing training for disadvantaged youth so that they have the skills to work in the hospitality industry.

 

My fave vegetable spring rolls @ Red Camelia

Red Camelia (30 Pho Cau May):  Our first dinner was at this bustling, candlelit restaurant.  When we arrived, they were already quite busy, so we figured the food must be good here – & it was!  To accompany our beer, we ordered fresh vegetable spring rolls with peanuts & mint (my favourite!), veggies with rice, and lemongrass sesame chicken on a hot plate with fries.  & although we were already stuffed, we got another order of the vegetable spring rolls because I liked them so much.  🙂  The only issue was that they decided to give us the same bowl of fish sauce for dipping when they came back with our second order (oh well).

 

Grilled Fish @ Little Sapa

Little Sapa (18 Pho Cau May):  We had another very tasty dinner here, with fresh beef spring rolls, fried choko with garlic, veggies, grilled lemongrass ginger fish on a hot plate, and a bowl of mixed fruits for dessert.  The restaurant is really busy and all the tables were consistently full.

 

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion

Viet Emotion (27 Pho Cau May):  This restaurant is busy throughout the day, with people sitting on their pretty patio for a drink between meals.  The food is excellent.  They even pack your dinner to go for those who are taking the overnight train back to Hanoi.

Tags: Food, Restaurant, sapa, Vietnam
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Restaurants in Hanoi – Where to find Authentic Vietnamese Specialties

May 4, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Quan An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau) – The concept behind this super-popular restaurant chain in Vietnam is very interesting.  Serving up traditional home-cooked dishes and Vietnamese “street food”, this restaurant offers an extensive menu of small eats and main dishes.  My favourite was the Banh Xeo (above right).  The egg is so thin and crispy!  Servers here will teach you how to put your dish together, so ask them if you’re unsure.

This restaurant is a must try in Hanoi!  Being only about 8 min (by foot) from Hanoi train station, it’s a great stop before your overnight train ride.

 

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Cha Ca

Cha Ca Thang Long (21-31 Duong Thanh) – This restaurant serves only 1 dish, Cha Ca, which is a Hanoi specialty. Making this dish requires cooking the fish twice. First, chunks of fish fillet are seasoned and grilled in banana leaves. Then the fish is sautéed in a pan with lots of dill, spring onion, chives, mint, and coriander. Once ready to eat, it is served with cold rice noodle, roasted peanuts and shrimp paste/fish sauce. The result is a very tender & fragrant fish. Your server will come by and show you how to put it all together. This was a tasty & fun experience 🙂

 

Our spread 🙂



Bun Cha Nem Cua be Dac Kim (67 Duong Thanh) – We each had an order of Bun Cha (60,000 VND) with a spring roll (15,000 VND). This tiny little shop offers a small menu, but everything is super tasty!

 

 

 

Pho Gia Truyen (49 Bat Dan) – Best Pho we had on our entire trip in Vietnam! The soup base was very clear and flavourful – perfection in a bowl. There are long lineups and you’ll need to squeeze in wherever you can find a stool at the table, but it’s worth the wait.


 

Tags: Food, hanoi, Vietnam
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Cafes in Hanoi – including where to find Egg White Coffee

May 2, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Café Pho Co (11 Hang gai) – Quaint coffee shop with a view.  It’s a bit hard to find since it is down a narrow corridor between 2 clothing shops.  We placed our order on the ground floor and then proceeded up the first flight of stairs.  You’ll need to walk to the back of the second floor before you reach a narrow spiral staircase.  Scale this & you will be rewarded with a terrace overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake.  The shop is quite busy, so if there are no seats, try the next floor up.  We ordered their egg white coffee and coffee with yogurt.  The egg white coffee was creamy & smooth, with a taste reminiscent of tiramisu.  The coffee with yogurt tasted like  coffee-flavoured Yakult.

 
 

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Me @ Puku Cafe in the wee morning hours

 
 
 
 
Puku Café & Sports Bar (16-18 Tong Duy Tan) – The best thing about Puku Café is that it’s open 24 hours.  Being about a 15 min walk from the train station, it’s perfect for arriving early in the morning after an overnight commute.  Their food and drinks are alright, but almost anything is good when you arrive hungry.

 

 

On our final day in Hanoi, we went to try out Joma Café (we were at the Joma Tong Duy Tan location).  It is a chain of cafés that remind me of North American chains.  There’s nothing authentically Vietnamese about this place, but you do appreciate the air conditioning.  We ordered some cold juices & chocolate chip cookies (which were VERY tasty!)  🙂  It’s a great place to catch up on some reading & writing too.

See my next post featuring Restaurants in Hanoi.

Tags: Cafe, coffee, Food, hanoi, Vietnam
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1 Day in Hanoi – Our Itinerary

April 30, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Since we were on a time crunch, we only had 1 day scheduled for Hanoi.  On our whirlwind tour of the city, here is what we did…

Stay:

We stayed at Little Hanoi Hostel 2.  It is one of 3 different locations, all of which are in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, so it’s very central.  We arrived early in the morning from an overnight train, exhausted and dirty.  They immediately offered us a shower in someone else’s checked-out room, which we really appreciated.  As it was before our check-in time, we were able to leave our bags in the lobby while we headed out to start our day.

Sites:

We started our city tour at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum since we were warned of long lineups.  The line was indeed long, but moved consistently.  Although I have to say that after having all our water bottles confiscated and going through security twice, it was pretty anti-climactic when we got there.  There were a lot of Vietnamese nationals paying their respects to their great leader.  It was interesting to see how many locals are still moved by Ho Chi Minh and his contributions to their country.

Note:  Rules of entry are strict.  Wear shirts that cover your shoulders and long pants (capris should work also).  No bags/cameras.  Also, check the opening hours before visiting as they are closed over the lunch hour, on mondays/fridays, and are closed in Oct/Nov each year.

Within the same complex is the Presidential Palace and the House on stilts (admission:  25,000 VND).  We weren’t actually able to enter the Presidential Palace, so only snapped a few photos of the exterior.  Ho Chi Minh lived mostly in the House on Stilts, which also has a bomb shelter right next to it.  There is a secret door that connects the office in the House on Stilts to the bomb shelter.

Since you’re in the area, you may also want to visit the Ho Chi Minh Museum (admission:  25,000 VND).  It documents the life of Ho Chi Minh and his accomplishments.  If you are a history buff, there’s a wealth of documentation here.

Presidential Palace

House on Stilts

House on Stilts

Stroll along Hoan Kiem Lake in the morning, and you will see locals doing their morning exercises.  If you have a chance, take a stroll at night as well.  It is lit up nicely and a great place to wind down for the day.

Spend 2-3 hours strolling through the Old Quarter of Hanoi.  Be prepared for a lively shopping experience, with each street lined with small shops specializing in different products.  Let yourself get lost in here.  No matter where you turn, there will be something new.  Even if you aren’t looking to purchase anything, it is an experience in itself to walk through the bustling, narrow streets of the Old Quarter.  And if you get tired, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés for you to take a break.

See my next post on where we ate in Hanoi.

Hoan Kiem Lake

Old Quarter

 

Tags: hanoi, Shopping, Vietnam
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Taking the Road Less Traveled – Climbing Mountains in Sapa

April 18, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

View from the Summit

View from the Summit

My main objective for going to Sapa (aside from seeing the famous rice terraces) was to climb to the summit of Mt Fansipan (3143m).  But when I was researching the trek, I learned that the camps are in terrible condition (with rats & cockroaches) & just really poorly maintained.  As much as I am happy to go camping in the wild, I couldn’t bring myself to brave those squalid conditions.  So my only choice was to try summit in 1 day.  It seems that a number of people have done it and it is a 10-12 hour climb at a good pace.

Being on a tight budget, I really wanted to hike up the mountain without a guide.  But since we didn’t have extra days to spare, we didn’t want to risk getting lost on the way up.  A lot of the guiding companies either didn’t offer a 1-day Mt Fansipan trek or were quite costly (i.e. $150 USD per person).  So we found a local guide who was offering the 1-day climb for $90 USD for 2 people.  I sent him an email & booked our climb well in advance of our trip.  Here is Cuong’s email:  nongvancuonglc@yahoo.com  & phone #:  0168 7863 711.

Unfortunately, when we arrived, Cuong told us that there had been a fire on the summit of Mt Fansipan and the National Park wasn’t allowing anyone to climb up.  The fire was apparently caused by people trying to get honey by burning the bees out of their hives.  The National Park officers really didn’t seem to care.  They were smoking their pipes and BBQ-ing, rudely ignoring us.  We tried to plead with them, letting them know we were here for only 1 day and REALLY wanted to climb, but to no avail.  It’s too bad we’ll never know what the true reason was.  The jungle is so humid and wet that it’s hard to believe the fire could have spread far (if there ever was one).  If anyone knows why, please please send me a note.  Or maybe we’ll end up seeing this on Scam City?

As an alternative, Cuong offered to take us to another mountain inside TaPhin village.  I had trained super hard before the trip just to be able to make the climb, so I was pretty disappointed 🙁

We made it! – @ the summit with Cuong

He took us on his motorbike very deep into the village and arrived at the foot of what Cuong calls TaPhin Mountain (about 2000m).  We began our climb and were basically forging our own path through thick vegetation, and trying to scramble up steep walls of loose soil and slippery rocks by pulling ourselves up with whatever we could grab onto.  Very soon, we had cuts and scrapes everywhere.  I had burrs embedded into my skin for over a week after the climb (well worth it though!).  We really wished we had a GoPro at this point because we couldn’t take any pictures while we were hanging on for dear life.

We stopped for lunch around noon and had a picnic of baguette and tomatoes, cucumbers and cheese.  I was eating my pineapple when I found a leech stuck on my arm.  I freaked out, flicking at it like a madwoman; & this is how I lost my pineapple 🙁  We moved on and made it to summit maybe 30-45min later. I was pretty scared when I realized we were super high and scaling the side of the mountain with nothing on either side of us.  The peaks had steep drops on either side of the ‘path’.  We tried to take some photos, but it was very misty.

For our descent, we decided to take a new path down the other side of the mountain.  The descent was slow and challenging with some acrobatics involved and just pure perseverance.  We finally made it down at around 2pm.  We didn’t really time our climb, but it may have been about 4hrs in total.  We were pretty dirty by now with all the sweating, landsliding, cuts & leech bites.  Kevin’s foot was bitten 3 times and it looks like a vampire attacked it.  They somehow managed to get INSIDE our shoes!

We then rode the motorbikes back through the village and the views of the rice terraces are amazing.  This village had H’mong and Red Dzao tribes and was much more scenic than Cat Cat Village.

The Road Less Traveled – This is definitely one of my Top 3 experiences in Vietnam.  We took the road less traveled and were rewarded with a unique jungle experience  & a great appreciation for the untouched areas of Vietnam.  Being the only 3 people at the summit was an amazing feeling, and one that I will never forget.

 

The descent…

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My first time on a motorbike…

Ta Phin Village

Tags: Adventure, Mountain, sapa, Vietnam
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Backpacking in Sapa – 3 Day Itinerary

April 16, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

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Day 1 – Cat Cat Village & Sapa Town:

Fresh off the overnight train from Hanoi, we arrived at our hotel tired & hungry.  First things first, we ordered a huge breakfast & a much-needed coffee 🙂  Then we turned our attention to what we wanted to do for the day.  We had already planned to hike up to the summit of Mt. Fansipan the next day, so we wanted to visit some of the villages nearby.

After breakfast, we set out for Cat Cat Village, which is 3km from our hotel.  It is a downhill hike to the village, and when you arrive, there is a booth there collecting entrance fees (40,000 VND per person).  There’s a store right across from the ticket booth that sells technical clothing (i.e. North Face, Jack Wolfskin, etc).  The prices at this store are the cheapest compared to other similar stores in Sapa Town (as of Apr 2014).

The village itself was small but pretty.  A bit too much tourism though, and the ladies from the H’mong tribe are pretty persistent in selling their wares.  There’s a small waterfall inside the village, which is a nice place to take a break.  In the same area, you will find a small auditorium where traditional dancing is being performed.

Aside from the beautiful rice terraces, my favourite part is the primary school.  The children are really cute 🙂  We dropped off a little baggy of school supplies with a little girl while we were there.

When you are ready to leave & you don’t want to make the uphill trek back into Sapa Town, there are a lot of motorbikes soliciting tourists for rides.  We chose to walk back & warm our legs up a bit for the next day’s much more challenging climb.  Allot 3-4hrs for visiting Cat Cat.

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Our Hotel:  We stayed at Sapa House, which is very close to Sapa Town.  And we were pleasantly surprised when we found the rooms looked as nice as their website photos.  See my Tripadvisor review here.

Places to Eat in Sapa:  See my next post.

 

Day 2 – Climbing TaPhin Mountain & Motorbiking through TaPhin Village:  Continue reading about our visit to Sapa.  Day 2 is on my Top 3 Experiences in Vietnam list, so check it out 🙂  Continue to Day 2…

Tags: Adventure, Countryside, Hotel, Mountain, Nature, sapa, Vietnam
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Trip Tips : Commuting from Hanoi Train Station to Sapa

April 10, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

How to travel from Hanoi to Sapa:

 1.  Head to Hanoi Train Station (Ga Hà Nội) – We took the taxi from Hoan Kiem Lake to the train station.  It took only 5min and cost 32,000 VND.

2.  Travel by train to Lào Cai (which is the closest you can get to Sapa by train) – We took Livitran Express (SP7).  It departed at 8:25 PM sharp and was supposed to arrive at 4:50 AM the next day, but due to track maintenance, we were delayed and didn’t arrive until 6:30 AM.  Prior to exiting the station, you will be asked to hand over your train tickets, so don’t throw them out.

3.  Travel from Lào Cai to Sapa (38km) – Once you leave the railway station, there will be a barrage of people offering you a ride.  By private car, it will cost you $20-25 USD.  We had asked our hotel to arrange for a shared minibus to pick us up.  Upon arrival, someone had a sign with my name on it and led us to their minibus.  It’s a well-organized operation.  They fill the van/minibus with people from different hotels & drop you off at your destination.
The ride is 45-50min and is a very scenic, winding ride up to Sapa Town; though it’ll be hard not to nod off after an exhausting overnight train ride.

A bit about Hanoi Train Station (Ga Hà Nội):  The station has 2 gates/entry points and depending on what ticket you purchased, you either need to go to Station A or B (double check with the company who sold you the tickets).

Station A is at 120 Le Duan, and is off the main street.  This station is used for trains heading south*.
Station B is around back on Tran Quy Cap Street (down some side streets).  This station is used for trains heading north.

*Although Station A is supposed to be for trains heading south, when we were heading to Sapa (i.e. north), we were actually allowed to enter through Station A.  We just had to walk further.  Both stations actually connect to the same rail yard.

Purchasing train tickets:

Since we were scheduled to head to Sapa on the same day we arrive in Hanoi, it was vital that I had our train tickets booked in advance.  However, this was more difficult than I thought it would be, and resulted in hours of online research.  Train tickets in Vietnam do not have your name on it and if lost/stolen, there is no way to replace it.

One of the most informative sites was Seat 61.  Their recommendation is to purchase tickets online via Vietnam Impressive.  And although it has been proven to be reliable, it would mean adding $14 USD to each train ticket (which worked out to be $56 USD for our side trip to Sapa).  I really couldn’t justify this cost, so I contacted a few companies that I found online.  The odd thing was that it seemed like the companies were all working out of the exact same office.  This seemed a bit odd to me, especially since every company asked for payment upfront.

I was really uncomfortable with this, so I went to Plan B – ask my hostel to assist me with booking the train tickets.  The only thing was that I had read reviews where other travelers did the same thing – paid upfront, and then never received their tickets.  I took the risk & asked Little Hanoi Hostel 2 to assist with my booking.  I was asked to pay upfront via onepay.  Once payment was confirmed, I asked Mr. Toan to send me a scanned copy of my official tickets, which he did.  Phew! 🙂

We picked the tickets up from the hostel when we arrived.  What we had were actually train vouchers, so we had to exchange them for real tickets. When we arrived at the train station, we went to the room labeled ‘Waiting Room for International Visitors’ to get the actual tickets (because we purchased Livitrans tickets), then walked to our platform.

Voucher on the bottom; Actual ticket on top

Tags: hanoi, sapa, train, Vietnam
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Trip Tips : Commuting from Hanoi Airport to Old Quarter

April 9, 2014 in Asia, Destinations, Vietnam

Transfer from Nội Bài International Airport to Hanoi Old Quarter:  I did a ton of research before arriving in Hanoi but somehow it still didn’t prevent us from having to figure things out on the fly when we got there.  Depending on your budget and time constraints, you have a few options (from priciest to cheapest):

1.  Airport Taxi – The price varies depending on who you approach (or more likely, who approaches you).  We were quoted $30 USD at the “Tourism Information” desk.  If you leave the terminal, there will be a line of taxis waiting for you.  We were quoted 400,000 VND from the first taxi driver & 350,000 VND for the second taxi.  Since this is the most flexible and efficient option, you may want to shop around and negotiate the price to something you are willing to pay.  Before my trip, I searched online and someone said it should only cost 160,000 VND for a sedan. They may have had some REALLY good bargaining skills or they were a local.

2.  Airport Minibus – Being budget travelers, this was the option we chose.  When you come out of the terminal, turn right.  There is a sign that says “Minibus”.  There are different minibus companies who will try to lure you over to them, but they are more expensive (at about 80,000 VND per person).  It cost us 40,000 VND per person (luggage included).  The minibus only leaves when it’s packed to capacity.  We were squished in like sardines, along with everyone else’s luggage.  But it’s a good sign when locals are also taking the same bus, although they somehow managed to get let off in random places along the way.
We were packed so full that every time the bus made a stop to let a passenger off, we had to watch & make sure our backpacks hadn’t fallen off when the door opened.  The ride took about 1hr 20min, and we got off at what someone told us was the second last stop.  The last stop is the Vietnam Airlines office.
From where we were dropped off, we shared a cab with someone else and it was only another 3 min ride (18,000 VND) to Little Hanoi Hostel 2 (located right by Hoan Kiem Lake).

3.  Public Bus #17 – Although it’s only 7,000 VND per person, I don’t recommend this option as it may take over 1.5 hours (with many stops) to get into the Old Quarter.  And as a foreigner, you may be asked to pay extra for any luggage you need to bring with you.

See my next post for tips on traveling from Hanoi Train Station to Sapa.

Tags: airport, hanoi, Vietnam
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